DAY 37...Mother Nature

Again we were off the water, the winds down this way are still way to strong for me and the sea swells have increased.  We stayed in our sleeping bags, we listened and watched the waves and the weather from the warmth of inside.  It had been a little cold overnight and I have fallen back in love with my hot water bottle, this old lady gets cold and when I get cold I get grumpy.  Yes I know it is December, I hear other parts of NZ are hot, well I am not in that part of the country at the moment.

Another thing we were in fits of laughter about this morning is that two days ago when I had a mare of a morning with paddling I got a bump on my head from the paddle.  Today the bruising has really appeared, for the past two days I have been able to hide the bump and bruising with my bandanna, but this morning the bruising had dropped to the top of my eyelid and it looks like I have purple and green eye makeup on.  It is a stunning look!  There are pics of this, initial bump and two days later, it looks like I actually have taken a punch from some one.  I have had worse than this bruise so I am just smiling about it.  I Facetimed a couple of people to chat, shared the day and the ocean sights with them and then we decided we were hungry.

Bacon eggs and tomatoes for brekkie, care of Nat, and a cup of tea.  We sat for a little while but Nat was not her normal bubbly self this morning and was feeling a little off colour so it was my turn to be the nurse.  She lay and rested for awhile but was looking decidedly pasty white in colour and then announced she felt like vomiting.  Nat is not a sick type of person and for her to even mention this must be bad news.  Off she staggered to the bathroom, oops she did not make it in time.  She was hanging by a post still near our camper van looking like she had been on a huge bender the night before and, how do I say this nicely, well she proceeded to vomit...poor, poor Nat.  I have to say she did smile once she lay back down, wrapped in her sweatshirt, jacket and a blanket to fall asleep for a few hours.

The rest has done us good.  I lay and read and snoozed on and off, the sound of crashing waves and wind makes you go to sleep.  I was happy to just chill and enjoy reading, catching up with the news and, yep you guessed it, checking the weather apps.  To my disgust none were telling me good news.  I did say before I set out if I had to sit in one place for a couple of weeks I would and I would be patient about it.  I am determined to enjoy this coastline and so staying away from battling everyday on the water and hating my time out there is not what I want, I want to smile and enjoy my paddling time.

Please understand I have and need to have total respect for this coastline and if I am in doubt about the wind and waves then I am not battling with it.  Well, I say that, but if it is not me battling physically, then I sit on the beach and have a mental battle with myself and today I talked with a few paddlers to re confirm I was doing the correct thing by waiting.  Yes I am impatient!  Yes I like to be on the move and yes this is tougher for me sitting on the beach and it is a learning and growing experience.  Ahhhhhh patience, maybe this is what this journey is about for me, to learn a new level.  That would be fantastic as I am a doer, not a person who sits and waits.

Later on we did go for a beach walk, we got battered by the wind and sand, in fact the wind was so strong it was giving poor Nat ear ache, she really was not in great shape today.  The school kids where out surfing again this afternoon and there seemed to be a couple of crazy's kite surfing as well!  Yippee for waves and wind they would have been saying, alas my worst demon.

Nat is slowly improving, we hope it is just a 24hr bug, at least the weather is in her favour as it is being relentless at present and nothing changes much tomorrow.  If there is a small window in the afternoon when the wind is meant to swing to an off shore and slow a little I am going to jump in my kayak in the afternoon, but this is not set in concrete.  This is probably the caged Tiger in me being over hopeful, we will see.

Otherwise more time to rest and read a few books, and time to say to you all, guess what?  We are chilled and away from traffic jams, the crazy Xmas frantic shopping and instead listening to the waves, seagulls and watching the rabbits hop around the campsite, Nat keeps threatening to turn them into a stew very soon!  I can see me getting off the water one day and she will have achieved this rabbit stew dream of hers, I can not wait.

My world today, it has been calm.  Big ups for Vero have said yes to me for the replacement of Thelma, accidents happen and insurance companies do say yes.  Trying to nail down a travel agent or airline to help with crew flights up and down the country when they do the swap over at Christmas time, lets see if anyone is feeling generous.

I thank you all for reading.  My apologies for no paddling, I have to say I am suffering the most from this.  I do wish you all good luck with the Christmas shopping.!  I would recommend just finding a deserted beach and just sitting, bugger the shopping it is rather nice.  Remove ones self from the chaos.  On saying this I am going to have a fantastic Xmas day, I am going to enjoy the simple things that it truly is meant to be about.  I am going to get up and just hug the day, I am going to say Merry Xmas to everyone I see and I reckon a smile and a nice and caring comment is better than any expensive gift.

Now what helps me and motivates me each day other than my own commitment and dedication.  Every day I also look at this, I have it written on the wall of my camper van.  These words spoken to me before I left from a very tough and respected man...

"It is going to be tougher than YOU can imagine, trust me."  My dear man this I read every day and I can hear you saying it to me, trust me it gives me strength..

Till tomorrow,
Red.
FUERZA! (Strength in Spanish, I do believe, thanks Marco Solis)

Bump which is now a black eye

Bump which is now a black eye


The coast south of here, which hopefully I will be paddling soon!

The coast south of here, which hopefully I will be paddling soon!


DAY 36...The weather wins

We did not even need to look out the window this morning to know there was no paddling today.  The spot we have at Castle Point Campsite is only metres away from the beach and all night we heard the wind and the waves.  The sound did not lessen it just got more intense, so even before light I knew that it was going to be a day off the water and I was totally fine and accepting of this.

I had promised to be the breakfast chef last night, making the morning coffee for Nat, she had the cheek to complain that I had not delivered her coffee in bed this morning!  (ha the jokes and ribbing had already started for the day)  As we are both rather gluten intolerant I had decided on creating breakfast pancakes from chickpea, coconut and breadfruit flours.  This was going to be interesting, fortunately it was a bloody great success!

I made the pancakes, sprinkled them with coconut sugar, caramelised a banana for Nat and topped it all off with yogurt, honey and grated dark chocolate.  Followed with a hot dark coffee it set us up well for the day.  Tucked up warm and toasty in Cuzzie we started on the list of emails and people to contact this morning.  After the lists got completed we then did some brainstorming for ways to encourage you all to help this charity I am paddling for and boy do we have some ideas, watch this space!  Who wants to win Thelma 2 or Louise?  Who wants a limited edition T shirt or sweatshirt, a BBQ dinner with the team and Red?

Anyway I have diverged, back to our day.  I spent time this morning trying to clean my sand and sea soaked Sharkskin Quick dry tops.  My OCD personality was kicking in and I finally had time to drag out this crazy washing bag we have and return these items to white instead of the bad grey state they where in.  Tim we are just now waiting for the sunshine to send you some smiling pictures!

Nothing was changing with the weather so after lunch we rugged up in our black leggings, even Nat was in a pair today (mine have become my total faves off the water, XXL for comfort!) as it was not short's or bikini attire today.  We headed off down the beach to climb to the top of the lighthouse point, it was damn windy!  We jumped from seats, stood at the tip of the cliff faces and generally blew the cobwebs out of brains.  As we were walking back along the calmer inlet to the back of Castle Point lagoon, Nat looked at the large peak in the far corner and said, "Wouldn't it be great to climb to the top of that."  So off we headed to the end of the beach to look for a track.   We walked past a car that was rapidly getting more and more stuck in the sand, as his wheels kept spinning and digging deeper holes.  We did offer to help but this man was taking no help from two small 'mere females'.  Really and truly he was very stuck, (two hours later he was still stuck) sometimes men's masculine egos just can not take assistance from females (ahh well) but by now the sea will have assisted in the demise of this poor mans car and dampened his ego, honestly we did try and help!

At the end of the beach we came across a gorgeous large seal, he was in a sheltered spot sleeping, we got really close, took a few pics and videos and he did not care at all.  Others must have wanted to climb this hill, as at the end of the beach there was a track.  Up and up it went, we climbed to the top and found a new strength of wind up there.  We did crazy hand stands, selfie pics and some mad yoga positions.  Even humans go a little crazy in the wind, just like animals.  We lay on the cliff top laughing at ourselves, it was good to be out, great to be enjoying the wind and great to be laughing, it is true.  It is so great for the soul, actually, this quote is sounding in my head...

 "Whatever's good for your soul, DO THAT"

Nat skipped along the track.  I can not quite get the skip happening just yet, maybe by the end of the trip we could be the girl version of "The Two Ronnies".  There where heaps of cool pics taken and the creative side of the support team was shining today, she was having fun and smiling.  No stress today with the crazy paddling lady out on the water, we could all breathe deeply.  We walked and talked, watched a school group surfing, (they where coming off the water shivering and there where many surfboards flying into the air as their riders fell off into the boiling and tumbling surf, I was not wishing to join them today) it was nasty out there and tomorrow there is more of the same.

Coffee and brownie on our return to Cuzzie, an early blog writing session and a laugh at the video of us doing yoga posing on the cliff top (Instagram footage for the morning, maybe join up and follow us and other interesting people, it is an entertaining, fun social media and I am an IG fan these days).  Thelma 2 is well underway, she should be back with me and ready for her maiden voyage, the Cook Strait crossing.

Well that is enough from me, sorry nothing from the water today but we had and did some fun stuff and that is what my Redz NZ Journey is all about.

Red.

(Veni Vidi Amavi... "We Came...We Saw...We Loved...")

(almost) Jump shot! 

(almost) Jump shot! 

Red's selfie taking technique

Red's selfie taking technique




DAY 35...Anxious & Nervous

This morning I woke with small butterflies in my stomach, I felt a little unsure.  There was no real reason, I just had nerves.  This is a unusual for me.  Anyway, it was to be an early start so got about getting ready and into Cuzzie to head to the stream end of Pipi Beach to launch.  On arrival there were some waves but from the dunes it looked okay and there was a promise of a strong tail wind once I got past them.

This is when the fun started.  I am not sure whether it was my uneasy feeling that I should have listened to or something else.  I got dumped backwards on my first and second attempts, damn this was a little confidence knee capping so on the third attempt Nat pushed me out into an easier set.  I got over the first 3 or 4 waves then the monster behind got me.  Shit.  Tipped out of the kayak and back to the beach I went.  By this time I was cold, wet, extremely grumpy and asking myself, "What are you doing?  Get a grip and get out there."  Nat was having none of this as by this stage I was shivering, so I was wisely dragged back to the camper van to strip off my wet cold clothes, get out of the wind and sit with a hot water bottle in the warmth for the next two hours staring at the ocean.  If you have seen the Instagram image from this morning that was me with Nat's woolen hat on, feeling a little, perplexed.

We studied the waves, noted the wind had dropped a little and the waves were lesser.  The next attempt was a success, I paddled out and for the next hour I still felt this uneasy, nervous feeling.  Nothing was gelling, nothing was easy and for the next 16 km to the first check point I had a tail wind, big seas behind and to the ocean side of me.   8+ kmph was what I was averaging and it was not easy.  Louise my white kayak was all over the place and my nerves were not good.  There was a little to much bracing for my liking and when I got to Akitio to do the check in I still wasn't feeling good, it had been a record fast speed down the coastline with no time to zone out, just hang on, brace and look over my shoulder.

I looked at the landing where Nat was and in hind sight I should have gone in.  Alas I did not so what can I say about the next leg.  I felt every single kilometer of the next 26 km push.  I hung on.  I braced.  I looked over my shoulder for the big set of waves.  I crossed yucky river mouths with waves of dirty water and mayhem.  All the time talking to myself, next time make sure you listen to those inner nerves matey, don't doubt yourself.  Nowhere to land and no chance to stop for food, just gulped back my sweet home made lemon drink to wash the salt water away.  At each large set I felt as if my little white kayak waited me to go for a swim, so by the time I hit the next checkpoint I found a large reef to hide from the wind and make a quick call to Nat.  I told her that I was coming off the water at the next sandy landing which was two bays before Castlepoint, the southern end of Mataikona Beach Road.  I was glad to do a great landing, stayed dry and steped onto sand.  I dragged my kayak to the sand dunes, grabbed my warm leggings and Sharkskin jacket, threw them on and lay in the warmth of the sand dunes waiting for Nat.  She was about one hour away as she had raced into Masterton to get food etc topped up so I sat there with my thermos of sweet tea and ate some food thinking while I lay there resting that it was nice to be off the water at last.

Bugger was in the back of my mind, there was only 9 km left to Castlepoint, but that would have not been pretty and there was a big chance that the waves would have won the bracing battle with me very soon.  The pig headed side of me lost the mind battle today and the safe and practical side won.  I am thankful of that now and it is great to be dry and warm in my camper van tonight, I am so mentally tired from the intense day I have just had.

Dinner was another successful "one pot wonder" mince, fried onions, bacon, red peppers, a tin of tomatoes, fried potatoes and wilted spinach.  Bacon makes everything taste amazing.

That is it from me, short and sweet, not like my day which was long and a relentless challenge.  Tomorrow will be by the looks of the weather a big windy and wave filled day.  I will respect this ocean and I will be staying on dry land.

Red

PS:  Also huge respect to my support team members, who have to deal with me talking through clenched teeth at times when I am on the water, for their calmness and caring concerned faces.  It is, as I have said a number of times, amazing to hear their voices crackle through on the VHF and the mobiles, even more amazing when they suggest where I can land.  They are my eyes and ears ahead of me and that means the world to me.  As we get deeper into this journey the respect for them all grows daily, thank you is truly not enough for these guys.  I honestly could not have got this far without them, and also Cuzzie van she rocks our world.

 

 

Today was a huge learning curve for me because instead of a headstrong determined Red I had a woman who was not so sure of herself.  I had to adapt the ways I dealt with her and perhaps I was not quick enough in doing this.  But now I know the difference in her voice and the signs to look for.  Watching her go out again and again this morning, battling the waves, it was like I was there with her, trying to push past every wave.  My heart was beating in my chest and I watched her paddle away into the distance for a lot longer than I usually would.  There is a fine line between determinedness and stupidity and I wasn't sure which side we were on.  Lady luck danced on our side today and now I know where our limits are.

Thank you all for your messages of support, Red really thrives off them.  If you have any ideas of how to entertain the tiger for the next few days, send them through, the weather looks like cage pacing.

Nat

Red staring out the window, pensive while warming up 

Red staring out the window, pensive while warming up 

DAY 34...At last, Porangahau to Herbertville

We waited patiently this morning.  We packed up, headed to the beach car park, sat and looked out at the ocean while waiting for windyty.com to be proved correct.  The wind was going to drop, the gusts would reduce and we would be able to hit the water.  At first I just stared, actually feeling a little nervous, and just being very matter of fact, if it happened then it would.  If we could not take off then I was not going to risk it.  The gusts early on in the morning where horrendous and Cuzzie rocked around and got buffeted in the wind.

At 10.00 am the wind still had big gusts but slowly they started to drop. The intense variation of wind speed calmed and the off shore wind was about 12 knots, maybe a little more.  At least there was not sea spray lifting off the tops of the waves now.

We unloaded Louise (my white STAR kayak).  The last time she had been in the water was at Mount Mauganui,  Andy had paddled in her and too be honest this was the first time I would have been out in this kayak so I was hoping everything would go well and to plan.

Kitted out and packed up we headed for the water and as predicted the wind was dropping, within two hours it was due to drop more and turn to an on shore right as I got to the tip of Cape Turnagain (surely was named this for a reason), where I had been made to turn back two days ago, so my heart was a little heavy.  I launched and paddled through a couple of small foaming, waves the little white kayak did well.  I got into a gentle rhythm and got used to paddling, I was taking it easy and getting the feel for this leg and felling bad for my red mate on top of the camper van.  It was a sad moment when I left her up there today, so sorry Thelma, we did not mean to break you, you were meant to come all the way with us.

As normal the tip of any cape seems to take forever to get to and this day was no different, you think the tip is the point you can see, but normally it is just a teaser and this was no different.  There was 23 km from Porongahau to the tip, I am so glad to have my Garmins, it takes away the mind game problem of am I there yet?  No Red you are not as you have only paddled 15 km, you have heaps to go still.  On this leg once the wind had turned I had a steady 9 to 10 knot head wind.  This was okay and bearable, I am so over big gusts!  When it is just constant you can just put your head down, paddle and try to zone out but when you have a head wind with massive gusts that just about wipe the paddle from your hands it raises your heart beat all the time.

At last I tucked around the corner I talked with the support team and had only another 10km to go.  I did not have to turn back, YIPPEE!  I was going to make it at last to Herbertville.

There of course was a river mouth to get across, it was rather wide and the water was its normal washing machine disaster zone.  I do dislike river mouths, they are unnerving even in the calmest of conditions, water ripping one way, the waves going the other and then a wind to deal with too.  In my new kayak I focused on the crazy water and looked ahead for the calm, just get past this and you are allowed to stop, drink some fluids and eat again.

Today was weird as it was such a late start for me but it worked in our favour weather wise, we both just wanted a calm day and to move down this coastline and at last we were doing just that.  I talked with Nat and we both agreed I had about 30 minutes more of paddling, YIPPEE, a short day.  I aimed for the rocks where she was standing and then past them to the calmer side.  Oops, I got a bit close to the beach and then had to paddle frantically back over a couple of big foaming waves hurtling my way, where the hell had they come from!

I stopped to focus, drink some water, and have a mouth full of chocolate.  I watched the sets of waves for a few minutes, I wanted to land well today, not a sideways bracing skid onto the beach.  Of course there were fishermen on the beach so I did not want to be their source of amusement.  I caught the back of a larger wave, paddle paddle paddle and damn paddle some more.  As I got near to Nat I yelled, "Grab the front of the boat, just grab it and drag, I will get out." 

You know what, this landing was a 10/10, safe, dry and happy.

We loaded Louise onto the wheels and pulled her along the beach, across a small stream and up the sandy track.  She is back happily in her cradles, a joy on her first days outing.  It must be a good omen as in I was in the white kayak today, I saw a beautiful white horse on the way to the campsite, where we were greeted by a gorgeous white cat on arrival to the campsite reception (his name is Marmite!)  So white was the lucky colour in our world today, thank you Sheena Hanson for your white blessing.

Dinner cooking, clothes washed, blog (nearly) completed and we have moved another day south.  Tomorrow is meant to bring us a tail wind, so here's hoping, we are aiming for Castle Point.  Nat has a large drive tomorrow as she needs to deliver Thelma to Masterton to be sent back to Auckland via Main Freight.  We both have checked and rechecked our tie downs, poor Thelma.

Talk tomorrow
Red

PS. Keep following, keep commenting, and please share.  We want to spread this message, we have goals and dreams and need your help in telling others.  We love hearing from you as much as you like reading the blogs.

PPS: I had an amazing message last night from the very cool young man we meet in Parongahau. Luke, thanks for the Paua, you deserve a mention.  We smile fondly when we talk about you and you will be part of our story.

Red and Louise on their first outing together

Red and Louise on their first outing together


DAY 33...Weather Apps are my new addiction

For those who know me you will understand that being awake at 4.00 am is normal daily occurrence for me.  But when you have promised your support team that there is to be no paddling as you have studied the weather apps the night before (three separate ones) and made them recheck them to try to find a window of opportunity to get out paddling, and there is none with any sound justification, then a rustling sleeping bag and the light of a phone being concealed inside your sleeping bag at 4.00 am, could and would be slightly annoying!

There was not a breath of wind this morning that I could hear outside, it seemed dead calm.  Frustrated was not the best word for my mood, damn the weather forecasts, I was going to paddle!  I looked and looked at the apps on my phone, flicking from one to another until I could not stand it anymore.  They said wind but I could see and hear nothing.  The clouds way above were moving rather quickly but I was trying not to look.  At 6 am I had to get up so off I staggered to the campsite bathrooms and started to get myself ready, bugger it I was going to paddle!  Even if I just got around the point to Herbertville at least it was 20 km further.  I wanted to get out there, beat the weather and be back off the water within 3 hours before the so called wind arrived.  It would make me feel better.  I am not sure how many of you have these thoughts, but some days I have my heart saying one thing and my head telling me another, and I seem to be stuck in the middle.  Part of me is saying for goodness sake stop being so damn lazy, just get on the water as the weather man surely has it wrong.

Just before 7am I announced to Nat that I was going to go out on the water and get around to at least Herbertville because the weatherman had got it wrong and there was no wind.  A very sleepy Nat looked up from her bed and said, "What?!"  I repeated myself and as she came around and woke up I shoved the mobile phone in her face and said, "See, there is a small window!"  Nat's reply was, it is the same as last night, look at the wind gusts!  "Do I need to call Andy?" (Andy is our fantastic back up mediator when we are on opposing paddle ideas, one says yes and one says no)  Poor Mr Warner gets a text, "Are you up?" He called and we discussed and I was reminded that I was in a bay and to actually believe the weather apps as he was looking online as well and the weather was stormy and we were lucky to be in a calm bay.  I remember he said "Yachts go to calm bays when the wind is bad, you are in a calm bay so enjoy it!"  Okay I was out numbered and had to accept this response, stand down from the paddling.

Nat was great, considering she was now trapped with a crazy paddler in a small camper van (tiger pacing in a cage).  We headed for the beach with food in a backpack and energy to burn off.  We went for a long walk along the beach, and yep there was wind and waves, so my need to paddle was quickly cooled.  I knew I was wrong to want to get on the water but sometimes you just have to be given a verbal slap and reminded.  I accepted they were correct.

We ended up walking for 14 km to the north end of Porangahau beach and back.  The sun came out, we went for a quick swim then ate snacks, got warm again and then it rained.  The wind got stronger and all Nat could do was smile and say, "Glad you did not go out paddling yet?"

Back at the campground we got chores done and things prepped for the next few days.  Maybe just maybe I will get on the water at about 10am, to get around the point to Herbertville.  We have more Paua for dinner thanks to our friend Luke and are much happier today now some of yesterday's memories have blown away...

I am banned from looking at the weather apps from now until 6am tomorrow morning when they update!  So perhaps a game or two of cards tonight to distract me.

Thanks to all for your amazing and supportive txts, emails and comments.  They have all helped.  Big thanks to the weather apps, you are right and I am totally wrong.  BIGGEST thanks to Mr Warner for being at the end of the phone when we/I needed to chat.

 

Everyone enjoy your Saturday night, we will!  Bet we are the only ones having Paua. :)

Red

 

See that wind in our hair?

See that wind in our hair?


DAY 32...Not sure why?

Really not sure how to start or explain today, I am sure one day my question to the sky will be answered, but for now I am just looking around and trying to make sense of a really challenging day, and there was no paddling!

I listened and looked at the weather, so stayed away from the water as it was meant to be so windy.  There were big gusts yes, at times today I wished and I think I should have paddled anyway, but as the morning got going the wind around the point did get rather relentless in its gusts.  We know this as we went for a reconnaissance drive and this is when things turned very pear shaped for us.

This blog is about our daily experience so everyone sit down and get a cup of tea, (whiskey) you will need it, and maybe a large bar of chocolate.

My red kayak, Thelma, decided to throw her self off the roof racks of our camper van.  Yes, she did, and oh yes she did a great job.  She did not totally bounce and she has cracks and a good fracture along the base, obviously 1000km (and all the days of training) was all she could take being with me!!!!  RIP THELMA.

Shitballs!  But we have a spare, Louise (my white STAR, exact replica and sistership of Thelma) is starting out as the main boat now, just until we get to Wellington.  Poor Mr Andy Warner, got the call and we have a Thelma 2 underway, and Thelma 1 is being sent back to the factory to retire on the wall and her parts will be stripped and used in her second version.

What happened you ask?  Well roof rack tie down malfunction.  It happens and it sucks, but there is actually no point getting high blood pressure over it.  We gathered her up, placed her back up on top, sent some picturess to prove she was past repair, and continued on our reconnaissance trip to the next few bays.

We got lost, we took wrong turns, it has been a day of tests of our partnership and you know what we have not yelled or screamed at each other once.  We sat in Cuzzie on the coast got and blown about by the wind.  We said thank goodness I was not paddling and went, you know what world, keep throwing these tough days at us, we are stronger than you think!

I am hoping that we will not go through a kayak every 1000km, my insurance company may get a little miffed by then.

Ahhh what a day!  Started off thinking we would be out for a couple of hours, but it turned into smashing a kayak, getting blown about on the beach, many wrong turns and eventually we ended up on the road from 10am till 6.15pm.  Oh boy, a challenging, dreadful day.

The wind and the apps are saying stay put (but I am not impressed with them at the moment) the locals said they where cray fishing and it was flatter than a lake.  My heart is saying get on the water and paddle, so very torn at the moment and a tad flat.  But it happens, the reason I survive is I can cope.  I can see lights at the end of a dark day.  That is why I am a little mad/crazy and why I accept challenges.  As a very wise person said to me before I headed off on this journey "No matter how bad you imagine it can get, you will have days which are far worse than you ever imagined".  Yes buddy you have been proved correct on this statement, thank you for the advice, just please today do not say "I told you so".

Positives for the day:
We survived, only not such a good time for Thelma who got broken.
We did not scream, cry or argue.  Brilliant partnership.
We planned the next leg of our trip, in fact Nat has it planned for the rest of the trip, weather and body permitting (it will even if I am half broken, I will keep paddling)
We sat and co ordinated Thelma's trip back to Auckland. Non Fragile Freight (sorry very bad humour)
We went to new and different towns (where is Weber ?) managed to detour far enough to get petrol in Dannevirke, oh and a Magnum for Nat.
We did not get any beach time today, so saved ourselves from sunburn, HA.

Aiming to be in Wellington by the week starting 7th December.  Here in Porangahau dinner looks great, hope you all have not choked on your cup of tea/glass of wine (large tumbler of whiskey).

Don't feel sorry for the team, just keep following, as Louise (my white kayak) wanted a turn on the water anyway.

Red

 

RIP Thelma...

RIP Thelma...

See, still smiling :)

See, still smiling :)


DAY 31...Milestone, 1000km today

Today is a big day for a couple of reasons, the main one is that I will hit the 1000km mark (!) on my journey today.  We firstly thought we would just do a short paddle, come off the water and head back to the same campsite to go foraging for Paua with the locals, but after hearing there were big winds coming by Friday we thought we best push on and get around the next point to Herbertville, about 50 km.

It was 5am in the morning when I headed out on the water.  Sunrise and the moon at the same time, what more could you ask for?  In my world really not a lot.  I have to laugh at myself each morning as I always leave my XL woolen leggings on until the last moment before I step into the kayak.  I try to stay warm and snuggly until the last moment with my leggings and my Sharksin jacket on, they are the last two items I stash in my front under deck storage before I depart, and then I am into the kayak and doing it again, always wondering what I will see and what the day will bring.

This coastline as lovely as before, the beaches and bays are long and wide, a stunning section of the NZ coast.  I edge past the breakers rolling into one end of Pourerere Beach and wave good bye to the team on the beach.  Poor guys, they still find my early starts a challenge but are totally supportive and go about getting me out on the ocean.  Then I am sure they breathe a sigh and say, "Yippee, no Red for the next 3 plus hours."  (I usually go, shit, I have to be at the next beach in two hours and its a 90 min drive, better get cracking... Nat)

Out on the water the ocean looked like glass and I zoned out to paddle... I then heard a loud "Phish" (the sound of a large whale coming to the surface for air).  A little way on the horizon I could see a whale.  I am sorry to say for you that by the time I got the camera out it had disappeared and did not surface in range, but so cool for me.

At my 10km mark I sat and looked around and to my amazement right next to my kayak in clear water was a blue shark finding my kayak extremely interesting.  I was sad to say I was not sharing any of my food with him as I was hungry and I was sure he did not like chocolate brownie.  He swam past me enough times for me to get some video footage and then I was on my way and heading to my first checkpoint.  I sent a couple of messages saying that the day was going well and that I had seen more and new fins, YIPPEE!

The day was shaping up really well and the team had said once I had paddled 25km I would be at my 1000km milestone. :)  I was not sure now how I actually felt about this, as it seemed huge before I set out on the 27th Oct.  By doing just bite size sections each day it has been achievable.  Yes there have been some bad times, and rough days, but when the sun comes out and you are the only person on the entire ocean for as far as you can see, it is very special.

1000km DONE!  I sat and just looked about, smiled, sort of congratulated myself and did what I had promised to do at this milestone.  Mike I thought about an Eskimo Roll, but as I thought about it the wind started to pickup and it reminded me that really and truly I should hurry up and try and get around this next point.  I still had another 20+ km to go and there were now whitecaps in the distance!

Another 5km closer to the point and Nat called to say that the wind was extremely strong around the corner and that it looked far to rough to attempt heading around.  I took her advice and turned back.  I was now in a rather sloppy, rough ocean and headed back for Porongahau Beach.  I had also now turned into a, yep you guessed it, the knarliest head wind, and I had 10+km to paddle in a outgoing tide with offshore wind and white caps.  This beautiful day had just turned into a wind battle, it was rather brutal and I did think that a couple of times that crying maybe an option.  Ha!  What was that going to do?  Not help me at all!  So I just focused smiled each time I was washed totally in sea spray, and told myself, "You wanted to do this journey, so enjoy it and harden up!"  I smiled and battled on, I had been in worse.  

The sunshine was intense and it kept me warm, so with a bit of a head wind it was a solid workout for me.  In slow time the beach got closer and as I neared the beach the gusts calmed a little as I was now under the protection of the hills and sand dunes.  By this stage I was pleased to be on the beach, even when I went side ways on a small wave.  I actually enjoyed being in the small wave, it was fun to get wet and wash the dried salt off me.  Big high fives to Nat once we had carried the kayak to Cuzzie, it was a great day and a (huge) milestone, and I actually feel great.

In the past 1000km this is what we have lost or broken to the ocean:
1x life proof mobile phone cover failed (now replaced with a new and improved case, and then carried in another waterproof case)
1 x iphone (due to lifeproof cover failure)
2 x water bladders (now onto plastic recyclable water bottles)
1 x deck compass.
2 x sponges
1 x kayak flag (I called it my Learners flag).

Big thanks to Colin at the Pourerere Beach Campsite, for his Paua info and also keeping us up to date with the weather and the nearest roadside SPARK mobile points for sending out blog last night. 

At all the campsites we have stayed in the caretakers and owners have been really helpful, THANK YOU, we enjoy arriving and chatting.

With a glass of Laurent Perrier Rose in my hand, sitting in the camper van after a dinner of fresh Paua (thanks Paul and Luke), I am still smiling and I am still enjoying paddling.  I enjoy the journey most days, and when it is a bad day, someone cracks a joke and we all just have to laugh.  It really is the best medicine.

Thanks!  Cheers to the next 4000+ km.
Red

Bitey the Shark, my new bff

Bitey the Shark, my new bff

LP & LP!  Yay 1000kms!

LP & LP!  Yay 1000kms!

DAY 30...Awesome Day

To make the most of a windless day and get into the swing of a big paddle before it got to hot, I was up in the dark and on the water by 4.30am, so I could get out to Cape Kidnappers pre sunrise.  As always there are moments at that hour of the morning while getting ready you ask yourself, "why?" but the weather was warm and there was no wind, just a gentle breeze and lots of moonlight.  The poor support team were up with me and Nat is fab,  she thrusts the left overs from dinner at me as I stagger to the bathroom so I can heat them in the microwave, and has a hot cup of herbal ready on my return.  This has now become my breakfast, but I have to say this morning at 4am, it took me a long time to swallow.  The only reason I managed to eat it all is that I know it will last me a good few hours in the morning when paddling, and it sets me up well for the bigger days.  All ready to leave then my iphone decides to freeze, again thank you for being patient Nat, as I find this kind of thing so frustrating when you just want to get going.  I am still needing to learn patience with IT/electronic stuff, this is not a strong point of mine..

Phone reset, food eaten and kayak all packed for a 65km day of paddling.  Alice gets up as well to say goodbye, looking at me as if to say, yep you are mad, but for me there is something really magical about being on the water in the dark.  I find it very soothing and when it is a calm, flat sea you just get into the zone really quickly in the cool of the morning.

Soon enough I start to see whispers of pink in the sky from the sun starting its new day.  I can see the gannets and the seagulls on the move across the ocean and the gentle swell lifts and drops as I slip quietly along the peninsula towards the gannet colonies.  As the sun continues to rise the sky becomes an intense orange and red, this sunrise is going to be amazing.  Timing was everything today as I got to the tip of the Cape at the best moment, and the sunrise just intensified as I rounded the head point.

Amazing, spectacular, one of the best so far, this sunrise sure did not disappoint!   Again I smiled, this is the reason everyone should get up early, pre sunrise, too sit and see the sun come up is something special.  To see the colours and feel the warmth of a new day seems to give me a special lift, it is as if someone has turned on a new and amazing day and this will always stay with me and I will always get up early before the sun, it is my happy time..

Well the plan today was mapped out.  When I do these big long paddles Nat and I break down the paddle legs and it makes it achievable.  Far better on my brain this way to have small achievable legs, so it was as follows:

Leg 1: 22km.. checkpoint...VHF../ Mbl – Ocean Beach..
Leg 2: 8.5km.. checkpoint.. VHF/ Mbl- Waimoiara
Leg 3: 15km... checkpoint.. VHF/ Mbl - Kairakau
Leg 4: 20km... campsite...Pourerere
Total.. 65km approx...

As the wind dropped I had a totally flat, oil like sea to paddle along.  A small tail wind, but nothing to get excited about.  There where numerous fish on the surface and also the early morning boil ups that have become common place. Sorry Jase, I did not have my pre made lure and line on board to catch any, maybe tomorrow.

Every checkpoint I was on time for and where there was no coverage of mobile the VHF seemed to work.  Well mine was great, but the support crew's unit needs to be upgraded, seems that the cheap unit just broke down too quickly, so a new one has been purchased.  Cobra is a winner, the Uniden is not so great, sorry to say.

Today I have to say thank you to Mother Nature, she was being wonderful to me.  Stunning sunrise, amazing weather, little to no wind, a little bit of cloud cover and I was off and racing.  I drank my fluids as instructed (3+ litres today a vast improvement on earlier long trips). I also made sure I ate at each stop, rested and hydrated.  As the weather was being kind I too had time to relax and be kind to my body as well.

Today was a goodie, the last 20kms I had a tail wind and a small swell, yippee!   I didn't dare say this out loud, as I thought any minute it would change.  Fortune was on my side and the weather stayed great.   We paddlers love days like this, I even managed to be 30 mins ahead of schedule arriving at the designation campsite.  I spotted the camper van and was surprised to see it parked at the middle of the bay as normally Nat goes to the southern most point.  I landed on the beach, yelled out to them and Nat was "SHIT, the campsite is at the end of the bay, you are way to early we were not even expecting you yet, do you mind jumping back in the kayak and heading down to the end of the beach to the campsite?" Today I did not mind at all, the ocean was being nice and it was joyous to paddle another couple of kms.

On the beach and relaxing, I had a coffee on arrival, with my hew found sweet treat, dark chocolate covered ginger.  We are all really excited, there are Paua on the rocks at low tide!  We have a cunning plan, tomorrow afternoon we are back to join some locals to go Paua hunting, we have now just found a crayfish man as well, so tomorrow is going to be a celebration!  We are hoping to hit 1000km target and we are going to try to have Paua and crayfish for dinner.  The news is that a storm and gale force winds are coming on Friday so this cool campsite may become our home for a bit.  Colin is a great caretaker and has made us feel so welcome.  I will paddle in the morning to Porangahau then we will back track to this campsite to stay, join the locals for seafood foraging and drink a little LP Rose champagne to say congrats on the first 1000 Km.

Ciao to all
Red

 

Support Crew trying to make the UHF work

Support Crew trying to make the UHF work

The best sunrise yet :)

The best sunrise yet :)


DAY 29...Short and Sweet

This morning felt like it had arrived too soon. I LOVE Napier and wished deep inside that today really did not arrive, but it has and the weather is calm, warm and the sun is rising.  I will very soon be hooked back up with Nat and our camper van.

We unloaded "Red Star" (my kayak) and got about my tasks of setting up and packing for this small paddle to Clifton.  I wanted to just ease back into the day and have a good catch-up with Nat and do planning in the afternoon.  It seems such a long time since Nat was on location with me, so to stop at lunch time and just enjoy the day was nice.

Sorry to all that thought I would be off around Cape Kidnappers and racing for another big day on the water, I was still dragging my feet and not wanting to leave this lovely place.  I am certainly going to return and stay, maybe for a summer session, maybe to pick fruit and enjoy this amazing town and location.

Today the weather was so, so kind to me.  Easy simple launch, calm waters with a small swell going my way and a little tail wind, paddling bliss really.  No one on the water at all the ocean was being so nice and I could see Cape Kidnappers far in the distance.  Many times I looked and felt like I should really be heading towards the point but I stuck to our original plan and at the 1.5 hour mark touched base with Nat.  Everything was a ok, and I was trucking along really well.

Today I had promised myself and all that I would drink more fluid, and I did.  No coffee before I launched, just herbal tea.  1.25 litres on the 3 hour paddle and then another large flask of herbal tea on arrival at Clifton.  So to the newly appointed H & S crew member, high five for the nagging, I drank all my fluids.

Once off the water it was hard for me not to feel a little guilty for this short day (I considered paddling round the point) but then I looked at the afternoon wind up ahead of us and decided to stay put.  I was not keen to do another 3 hours into a 15 to 17 knot head wind, tomorrow is calm and peaceful again, so a big day planned.

Lunch was consumed, no excuse there is so much food!  Someone had to help with the poor fridge and stop it from exploding every time we opened it as we are stocked to the roof top with food at the moment.  The next three days are planned, the locations and distances mapped out.  We had plenty of time to lie in the sun, catch up on the week we have been apart and generally re read emails and looked at the upcoming coastline/camping locations and road access.

We are hopeful to make Wellington by or before 5th/6th Dec, but please don't hold me to that!  Mother nature has a lot to do with the next stage.

Tom and Alice have joined us for this leg of the trip and Tom has managed to erect a hammock between the camper van and his car.  This could be the best place this evening for the sunset location.  They are day tripping while I paddle and catching up with us each night, hoping the weather stays fine and sunny.  No trip to the gannets as we got the tide timing wrong and the next low tide is late this evening.  Ahh, never mind, I am sure I will see a few gannets as I paddle the cape tomorrow.

Tonight is pre packing my food, making my thermos of tea and I plan to get on the water way early so I can see a sunrise and get along the coastline in the cool of the morning.  Big push tomorrow, looking like 50+ km, hoping to get to Waimarama.  Now my stomach is rumbling, so time for dinner and an early night. 

Please if you have time keep sharing this blog and keep following.  I love all of your feedback, it is totally amazing and keeps me going.  Also please let us know of any places or people we need to catchup with along the coastline and if we are heading your way, do come and say hello!

Red

Nat, Tom, Red & Alice at Clifton Beach

Nat, Tom, Red & Alice at Clifton Beach


DAY 28...NAPIER, regrouping day

Well today was about maintenance and regrouping.  I washed Cussie, got 2 new tyres and a wheel alignment.  I went for a stroll along the Napier water front and into the city, this city is special, I spent time working in Napier many, many years ago when I was a hairdressing apprentice.  The city has changed and is somewhere I could spend a lot more time.  It was warm, sunny and nice to be in shorts and a tee shirt.

We went shopping for food and other goods for the next leg of this trip and then went back to collect my camper van with the new front tyres.  We then headed to get raw milk from the farm down the road, such a cool vending machine, we seriously need one of these in Auckland.  Then we dropped the campervan at Westshore camping grounds, she is set it up for Nat's return, and then I headed back to Bridge Pa to help Mavis with dinner tonight, as Jesse and Robert were coming for dinner.  Steak, coleslaw and smashed potatoes with a home made pavlova for dessert, a cup of tea and ready for tomorrow.

Short paddle tomorrow with the gannets to go and visit, Napier to Clifton.  Will start to rake up the kilometres again over the next few days I am sure, but I have a couple of places to go and visits and see along this coastline.

Nat and I are back together in Cussie tomorrow...and the planning will be underway.  Wellington is on the horizon and can not believe that it is nearly the end of November and Christmas is coming.

Notes to self, remember to drink fluids (and report back to the nagging support crew) or they are going to blackmail me and start reporting back to the Auckland men.  Funny moment of the day, lying on the floor of the tyre workshop, under the campervan, helping to hook back up the spare tyre as they where not sure how it all worked!  Red, in her shorts, tee shirt and jandals on the workshop floor!

Cool moments, spending time with cool younger people and listening to their antics, stories and their outlook on life.  Jesse & Robert, you two are nut-bars!  Be careful, have lots of fun & remember to stay safe, play nicely with those young girls and try not to break too many hearts along the way.

I am rested, regrouped and looking forward to a 3 knot tail wind, sunshine and Clifton.

Night night,
Red

Red departing Napier for Clifton

Red departing Napier for Clifton

DAY 27...Animals galore & horse show

We went to bed really late last night as after getting off the water I had to help with the feeding and watering of all of Vanessa's animals; goats, chickens, donkeys, her pony, cats, dogs and the magpie, Mangus (aka Bird).  I love this and it always makes me smile.

Bird has a great story behind how he came to be a part of Vanessa's life, let me share it with you...

"Bird fell out of his tree in mid October 2009.  He had no proper feathers just fluff.  We fed him a mash made of chicken crumbles off a teaspoon and soon he could eat meat and veges too.  His favourite is chicken, he has never eaten a worm in his life, he also loves beans and god help anyone who tries to take food off him!  He took a while to learn to fly, after one crash he wouldn't try for about two weeks.  But he is very good at it now.  He once thought he might like to live at the golf course and flew over there.  He was back in three days starving and thirsty, exhausted.  After having a huge feed and drink he slept for the rest of the day.  He mainly communicates by wolf whistling but has a lot of other tunes he has made up himself, including some magpie noises.  There is a special one he uses for anything he considers dangerous, like the cat, hawks and hot air balloons!  He has also learnt to say F*** Off."

We raced to the supermarket to grab some food for diner and then straight home to eat, both of us were starving, me also a little Hangry.  We followed dinner up with a bowl of coconut cream at midnight to satisfy my late night cravings.

Today was an early start for us, off to Waipukarau for the Waipawa Sports (Horse) Show.  Vanessa (Mavis as she is known) had teamed up with a young man Jesse Linton who was riding a number of horses today.  It was very cool to be in this environment as when I was very young and still on the family farm in Waikato, I had a horse which I rode.  Nothing as fancy as what I was seeing today, but I could still ride.  My horse was never as well groomed or as skilled as what I saw, but he was still fun.  The day was very warm and sunny, but the wind was extremely strong, so I was pleased I had knocked over the big paddle yesterday, as it would not have happened today.

My gear is clean and dry, the Hawkes Bay is always great to visit, and has alway been a place I have enjoyed.  Tomorrow is another day and it gives me time to get the support team back on board and sort out a new tyre for Cussie.  I will also give her a wash and do a bit of pre planning for the next few days.  Then to the supermarket to buy some food and fresh produce. 

Today I stopped for a moment and actually forgot about paddling. I immersed myself in another persons world and enjoyed the horses; their smell, cool attitudes and personalities.  I watched some very talented riders and was fortunate to watch from other peoples eyes.  Cool stuff.

My laugh for the day, Mavis declared that she hates and is scared of Fish!  She was totally freaked out by the fish jumping in the marina last night, but thinks nothing of jumping on a horse that is way bigger than her.  We all have our little quirks.

Hawkes Bay I am coming back, to ride the many bike trails you have, to take more time to visit places and rest for a while, to go for a swim or two in the many rivers that flow through this beautiful countryside, to buy amazing fresh produce from the many orchards, to visit the farm that supplies raw milk (that is truly cool), maybe convince Mavis and Jesse to give me a couple of refresher riding lessons, and of course to taste some wine!  This place is stunning.

Chat tomorrow.
Red

Bird

Bird

Jesse Linton

Jesse Linton

DAY 26...Wairoa to Napier

Well it was going to have to be done today.. the weather window looked okay, but who can ever tell.  I had to wait for the wind to drop a little so only hit the water just before 8.00am.  It could have been a little earlier but Reg and I met a local, Jamie, who was out for an early bike ride and we all got talking at the beach.  After the huge seas and the expected nightmare launch the weather gods where so so kind to me!  The sea and the beach were flat and calm, I just stepped into my kayak and gently pushed off.  Reg I think could not wipe the smile from his face this morning, we waved and said we would touch base at the Mohaka river mouth area.

Today was going to be a big push because if not completed then the wind was due to get stronger for Sunday.  The first 3 hours to the 21 km mark just got better and better, the only negative was that the swell was not going my way, but a strong current and hardly any wind helped a lot.  I tried to drink my water as I was being nagged all the time from the ground crew about this.  I thought about lots, played, and watched the gannets bombing a large boil up a little way off from me when I was resting.

I pushed on mindful that I still had a massive amount of kms left to cover and that I needed to get back into cell phone coverage really fast to talk with the support team before they left and headed for the airport.   The crew are changing over, Nat will be back with a friend, Tom, arriving Monday afternoon.

The next leg was hot, still and smooth for the first half and as I got closer to the Cliffs and pointed towards Tangoio the swell and head wind turned against me a little more until it was hard to push forward.  I headed to shelter from the wind gusts under the cliffs which did help a little but it was slowing me down.  The next 3 hours where tough, I kept reminding myself that it was not as tough as a couple of days ago but still this cliff line felt like it took forever to get to the end of.  

When at last I was nearly there I spoke with Reg, he had not had a fun day.   A tyre blowout on Cussie and also flattened a couple of birds.  He was understandably rather unhappy with his day.  Thankfully an amazing local, Hamarly, stopped to help him change the tyre, and got him to Napier in time to drop off Cussie to the marina for me to collect.  Then another lovely Napier lady, Ann, gave Reg a lift to the airport.  THANK YOU to these amazing, generous souls, it makes our day and keeps us smiling.

REG got his flight and meanwhile I am looking at white caps for the next 18km.  Crossing to Napier Port I was thinking, "Why now mother nature?  Why can you just not please give me a tail wind, just once, please, please, please..."  Alas, this was not going to happen, yet again the last 18km were brutal.  They could have been way worse but it was enough at times to make me sigh and take stock of this big paddle.

I knew people were wanting to meet me at the Marina and I was really mindful they would start to think the worst if I did not hurry.  When I  got to the 60km mark my Garmin watch battery ran out of juice, so I quickly looked at the time, looked at the port, and thought okay, I can do this. I play a small mind game with myself while out on the water, paddle for 1 more hour then you are allowed to look at how many more kms you have to go.   When I get a little tired I find that when I actually look at the kms left it is a fantastic surprise when I have gone further than I expected.  I saw another fin, a large shark when crossing this section of water, probably a bronzie, but he disappeared as I arrived.

I text my friend Vanessa to say I thought I had about 5kms to go and to tell anyone waiting I was fine.  As I got closer to the port the winds started to drop and the hill protected me from the wind, phew.

I had made it to Napier!  It took longer than I had hoped, but then if I told myself I was going to have a 10+ hr paddle when I set off, I would probably still be sitting in Wairoa!  It is the mind games I have daily when I set off of the big long distance sections, and at present it is still working to get me through

Most of today was amazing, it was only mixed with a 20% painful section,  so all good.  Lovely to see smiling faces at the port,  thank you for waiting.

Once I had landed, I convinced my legs to work.  As I had been in my kayak since 7.30am it was a long time for my legs to forget to how to work.  We carried my kayak to the campervan, chatted and while I got warm in the back of the van we gossiped and ate ginger coated in dark chocolate to get some energy back.  I sure am looking forward to a sleep in a big real bed!

Tomorrow the winds are back up, so I am off to play with some horses for the morning with Vanessa and generally eat everything in sight as I am starving and need to fuel up again for the next section.  I am glad to be in Napier, it is actually a milestone for me and it seems to me to have taken awhile to complete this last section.

Tomorrow is about seeing things and places I have not  before in the Napier/Hastings/Bridge Pa area.  There will be some crazy images of the offf the water antics for you all over the next few days, until the wind drops again on Tuesday morning.  As I have said earlier this is a coastline to respect and place to listen to mother nature.  I am also looking forward to getting to Wellington in one piece.

 

I have decided to share with you some of my thoughts today on the water...

1: It is amazing already the wonderful and generous people that we have meet so far.
2: It is so cool to hear the stories and have knowledge shared from our new found friends.
3: I think maybe my Christmas spirit has been rekindled after spending time in the Wairoa Riverside Campsite with their amazing house that was totally decked out in Christmas lights, her cakes that were cooked and iced.  Everyone was so happy and excited about Christmas coming, to me this was a very special moment.  (I am think I will be going back to this campsite to experience the turning on of the lights for their Christmas 2016)
4: I have learnt two new knots to tie my cords and ropes with.  Thanks Reg for your patient lessons. 
5: As I get further from Auckland my heart is made to smile each day by meeting real and genuine people who have a life and who are so happy with it.  They are relaxed, they actually care and they have time for us and each other, this is the greatest moment.
6: I am going to ditch the coffee! (I am blaming you Reg)  I am about to prove a point, thinking that I can complete the rest of this journey with flasks of peppermint/lemon drink sweetened with honey, so watch this space.
7: Being supported by such a cool bunch of young people.  My support team are AMAZING.  They are with me on this journey because they "Get It".  Each one of them has given me a wonderful new way to look at life through their eyes, their openness and thought patterns.  This is something very special and I learn a new angle and way to look at life every moment I share with them.
8: Meths Threading really really works and I recommend it for hand blisters.
9: Cooked hot food for breakfast rocks my world!  Steak and potatoes for breakfast yummy!  This gives me far more energy for a big paddle than cereal and I can last 3 hours before feeling hungry.
10: If we just made an effort and said something nice to someone each day, then we can make someones day, AND it feels good when you see them smile.
11: Newest saying on board Cussie "JUST GAP IT!" ( I will explain another day)

THANK YOU ALL for the ones who "Get It".  For my brutally honest training buddy back in Auckland, for my real and honest friends who have listened to my dream and to everyone else for finding my blogs interesting.  I am enjoying sharing them with you.

FYI: It takes me 515 paddle strokes to cover 1 kilometre in distance (I am far to scared to do the maths on the entire journey, I will leave that for you!)

Good night.. Red

 

Resting off the coastline of the Mohaka river mouth.

Resting off the coastline of the Mohaka river mouth.

Cussie's Blowout

Cussie's Blowout

Reg's helper Hamarly.  THANK YOU from everyone on Redz NZ Journey

Reg's helper Hamarly.  THANK YOU from everyone on Redz NZ Journey


DAY 25...Wairoa day two

As expected we are still in Wairoa.  It is dry but extremely windy today, we headed to the beach to look at the swells and the ocean.  An off shore wind today, and way, way better looking than yesterday.  We also talked to a local surfer today and got some good info.  We went and brought some provisions, some repair top ups for the kayak and got everything ready for tomorrow mornings launch onto the ocean.. 

Today was just a general sorting day and we both enjoyed the weather until just after lunch and then the wind picked up majorly, Cussie was being blown about and we sat inside and read books and chatted.  Not really a lot to report today, apart from clearing small pebbles from everywhere in the inside of my kayak, checking the rudder and everything is in working order for the paddle tomorrow.  We prepped food and stuff for the paddle trip, and generally got ready for the change over of the support team and my long paddle tomorrow.

We have been looking at a new website for the weather reports, www.windyty.com.  It seems to be really accurate, so lets see how we go.  We are now off to check out the Christmas lights that have just all been turned on at the campsite.  My gear is dry, kayak is ready, I am well fed and watered and rested so fingers crossed launching tomorrow with an off shore will keep the dumping swell from being too bad, and Napier here I come!

We have a plan for tomorrow and will launch at sunrise, there are also a couple of spots I am prepared to stop at if the weather does not turn out as planned.  Blisters are healed :) YIPPEE!  Girl Grylls style repairs worked.

Have a great weekend everyone and will hopefully update you all tomorrow.

Red

Launch point for the morning

Launch point for the morning

DAY 24...Wairoa, no paddling.

Today there was no paddling.  Sunshine a plenty, big, big swell and an easterly, not something I was going to attempt.  To satisfy my over keen nature I went and looked at the coast and the beach where I was to launch from, it was nasty.  Big, dumping swell that would surely swallow me up and dump me back on the beach totally broken.

We instead turned to the list of jobs on the wall and ticked off lots of these, restocking of my kayak food, (chocolate brownie, coconut orange & mint truffle balls, drizzled in honey) repacked and sorted my gear, dried it all out and did some food shopping.  I lost a bet with the support team so have had to cook dinner tonight, it is a classic, roast chicken with my famous roast veges and broccoli.  Yum yum yum is all I can say.

The campsite we are staying in at Wairoa is fantastic, the bathrooms and kitchen are so clean and tidy, the locals friendly and helpful, absolute weather gurus, handymen and just a great mix.  Reg and I have spent hours chatting in the kitchen to them.  We have had a great day in the sunshine and laughed a lot about trying to locate each other and the general day to day life we live.  We looked at the next leg and fingers crossed it is a big push on Saturday morning to Napier.  The locals have said don't go out in an easterly or a southerly, it is too bad, and don't go out when there are big swells.  We will wait patiently, this is not an area that will be kind to me if I get it wrong.

Wairoa town is very pretty with the river, yet the coast line is rugged, such polar opposites in a way.  Slow river and then you get over the high black stone drifts and there is the brutal ocean greeting you.  I hope it will be calm soon.

Looking forward to the next paddle, even though it is a big section, as it will be nice to be on the water once we get going.  The time off is giving me time to do a 'girl grylls' style home surgery on my two hand blisters.  I call it "meths threading".  You soak a needle and thread in meths and then place the needle and thread through the blister and leave it to drain, the meths keeps the thread clean and sterile, and then drains the painful blister.  My hands looked a little bleak yesterday, but are 100% better today since being tended too this way.

Cussie is cleaned and de-sanded, the gear is clean and dry, we are fed watered and onto eating chocolate truffles.  Sorry to the crew for force feeding them but I seem to be always hungry these days, and am making up for missed meals from yesterday.  New neighbours have arrived, it is fun sitting in the campervan watching the different shapes and sizes of camervans.  It seems to be that there are 100 on the road everyday, and many are familiar faces.  We all seem to be heading on the same roads and to the same paces but typically I am taking a little longer than them to get down the coast.  This camper van world is incredible and the journey of mine is opening my eyes to many others lives and the freedom they have.

Cussie the campervan has had a few modifications and changes, so to the other support crew due back soon (aka Nat), blame Reg, it is all his fault, nothing to do with me, I am just the poor crazy paddler. :)

We have scanned the weather, swell and wind reports but alas, it is another day off the water tomorrow.  But Saturday, maybe, just maybe, Napier here I come.  This is an old haunt of mine and am looking forward to this.  I know this area a little, it is remote, but I am looking forward to a couple of beach moments.

Chat soon, I hope you keep following my journey.  We are having fun most of the time, especially when the sun comes out.  Summer holidays are great and we are not being bothered by that mad Christmas craze while we are here.  This is the life, well today at least, we have the kayak books out and are sitting in the sun reading (thanks Mike/ Gerry and others for the reading material) and we are dreaming.

Red.

Delicious roast chicken dinner

Delicious roast chicken dinner



DAY 23...ARE YOU MADE OF SUGAR?

I got up early before the sun was up to see if the weather would let me do the paddle today.  Mahia was okay, just a few little ripples but it was the head wind around the corner and for the next 36km that I was not looking forward to.  This leg I for some reason wanted completed and not really with a head wind.

It was more of an on shore wind for most of this trip and the coastline says it all about this section, steep, steep black beaches with driftwood everywhere, even lots of large tree trunks.  I could tell that is an unforgiving coastline by the way the trees all grow nearly side ways to deal with the constant wind battering them.  The swells and the waves where like a commercial washing machine today and after all the beautiful paddling yesterday from nowhere came todays section of another tough, constant mental and physical battle.  If I did not watch the incoming swell I would find myself out if my boat and in a rolling foam heading towards the beach, with maybe a couple of thigs broken once I had been dumped there.

I was not looking forward to this landing so I contstantly looked at the waves, reminding myself to stay back of the biggest wave, paddle, paddle, paddle and then paddle some more.  I was determined to get the landing nailed on this beach or otherwise the sea would nail me.

A rain storm also decided to heighten the challenges on this leg, pre arrival the wind picked up and I just focused on the end of a point and paddled slowly and carefully through, around and over the swells.  At last I got to the river mouth entrance.  I do dislike these sections of the coast, the water gets messy and waves seem to come from every angle.

Of course tokay there was no mobile coverage and no pick up on VHF, so I paddled a little more.  In between waves and swells I got a call from Reg and with my mobile pouch in my mouth I talked to him through clenched teeth, in between moments of "hold on", "keep talking" and "I can't hear you properly".

He was at last able to see me so we briefed each other again about my landing.  I took a deep breath and got as close to the beach as possible.  Paddle, paddle, paddle, back of the wave and I made it.  Thanks to the team for getting wet.  With the foam and sea going everywhere, I jumped onto wobbly legs, and just missed getting bowled over by the next big wave.

It is a joy when you get it sort of right.

It is looking like I am going to be stuck in this spot for a few days as the winds are at least 15 knots and climbing, not something I want to paddle this next leg in.  More compulsory rest days coming up, but this will help the blister that has decided to form on my right hand.  It is a little bit "ouch", but as the men in my world would say, "So?"

FYI everyone, after today's paddle, I am most defenantly not MADE OF SUGAR!

Red

A huge tree trunk washed up on one of the beaches I passed

A huge tree trunk washed up on one of the beaches I passed

DAY 22 ... Around the entire Mahia Peninsula

This morning I seriously did not want to get on the water (gosh that is being honest).  I did not fancy hitting into a big wall of cold water at the surf beach that I landed on 2 days earlier, and getting cold and wet.

Today reminded me of most Tuesdays when I was training, it has always been a hump day of sorts, but if I get it under my belt and done then the week always would go well, but falter on a Tuesday and the week used to fall apart.  I kept reminding myself of this as we got on the road ready to throw me into the water, I just wanted a warm day with no wind and no big swells.  It would be nice to be warm and not be wrapped in my lucky leggings till the last minute.

We drove to the end of the beach and I looked up and out to the ocean to be pleasantly surprised the waves where way smaller and there was actually gaps between the small surf.  We slowly got ready and Reg was full of funny topics trying to lighten my mood.  Today I was even mentally thinking that if I get to 35km and have had enough I would pull out into the nearest beach and stay put for the rest of the day and night.  I quietly packed my chargers and electronic extras, my sleeping bag, my bivvie bag, my tarp, etc, thinking in advance I could bail on this big paddle if I wanted at anytime.

I got to the waters edge by 7.30am, then in and onto the water, happily a dry and easy launch!  Waved from the smooth water back to the support team and headed off, with the voice of the friendly local in my head saying "THAT IS A HUGE PADDLE" to do in one day.  Oh really?  Bloody hell thanks for that!  I needed to just put my head down and not think for awhile.

At 8.30am my mobile rang loudly, it was Nat to say that YachtBot was about to go flat, (oops we had not done the charging correctly, sorry YachtBot team) user error.  I said there was nothing I could do and thought, hmmmmm, what else will go wrong today...

Two hours into the paddle and I was starting to get past the darker mood I had started with.  To me surprise and delight what should appear but FINS!  Lots of fins, dolphins everywhere, the biggest pod I have ever come across.  I splashed the paddle on the water to get their attention and over they headed. They swam with the kayak on the swell for a good 30mins, yes the video worked and we have pics and video coming your way.  I started to smile and thought this is magic, the sun came out and I started to warm up.

Reg called in for our 2hr checkpoint and we agreed I would txt from then on at 2 hr intervals if I had reception, but if no txt not to worry, I would contact him once I got around and past Ahuriri Point, as reception would probably come back after then.  This coast line and peninsula did not disappoint, STUNNING, remote in places but great water to paddle.  I was doing ok and enjoying it again.

It took a little longer to get to the point than I had first anticipated and once there txt Reg to say not to panic but I was still about 4 hrs away from completing.  Unfortunately second battery issue of the day, my mobile was on red, there had been a program running in the background draining the battery!  I had my backup charging unit so once around the point I pulled into a beach and put my phone on charge and paddled in the cold water for a little while, hoping I may see Paua as it was low tide.  Alas, nothing.  Since I had a promise with my support team to get back and not to be doing any foraging on my own under the water, I moved on.

I must say that my Goal Zero solar panel unit works really well.  I had it stashed in a clear dry bag on my deck and with the direct sunlight and it charged my phone safely and really well, I highly recommend.

From Ahuriri point to Long Point was a dream come true.  Calm seas, sunshine and a swell going with me, I was in paddling bliss.  After the dolphins I  was hoping to see Orca on this side of the Peninsula,  but no, not today, it seems that would be far to much to ask.  Passing long Point I had the swell still but the off shore wind had arrived, I think this seems to be my typical end to every day, a little bit of hard paddling for the last 1 km or so, but it still felt really good to be out there and doing it.

The 3rd and final battery issue today, my Garmin watch decided that I had been on the water for too long and it also got a flat battery at the 56km mark!  Never mind.  I know where and how long I paddled today so by the end of the day, I was still smiling.  I did not even have a swell to deal with on arrival at the beach, just a head wind.  I did not even mind that support crew had forgotten the to wear the pink sharkskin that makes them easy to spot on the beach.  I was all smiles at the finish today, I sculled a litre of coconut water on landing as I had been scolded by Reg (support person) for lack of food and water consumed on this trip, in fact it is 10.30pm at night and I am still being told off.  I will try harder tomorrow.

On arrival at the campsite at Mahia we went to the cafe at the campsite where I was rewarded with a punnet of chips and lashings of salt.  OMG they where so good!  Anyone holidaying in this area over summer, please visit the cafe or stay at the Mahia Beach Holiday Park.  Great coffee, great chips and they have a pizza oven coming.

The campsite have been amazing, no charge for us tonight to help the charity paddle and they also where in the sand dunes cheering when I arrived.  I have been so blessed today.  I would seriously recommend this section of the coast as a paddle to others.  There are beaches you can land at at the top of the Peninsula and it would make a multi day paddle really pleasant.  You could stop and snorkel for some Paua, and send me a picture.  I am coming back to this location for sure!

Night night, as to beat the wind I have to be back on the water before sunrise to paddle to Wairoa.  Wairoa is apparently famous for its pies, or so Reg keeps telling me.  I will be off the water early tomorrow, and that is a promise because then then the winds are due back.   So maybe a couple of days of pie eating is ahead of us.

Red

Getting prepared for the long paddle around Mahia Peninsular

Getting prepared for the long paddle around Mahia Peninsular

DOLPHINS!

DOLPHINS!


DAY 21...Resting at Mahia Campsite

Today started off with a laugh, in the early hours of the morning when I forgot I was attempting to sleep on the sofa seats at the back of the campervan (previously I have been sleeping on the reclining passage seat of the campervan, I find this way more comfortable) and I rolled over and promptly feel on the floor!  Poor Reg got a rather an unexpected wakeup.

We woke to heavy rain on the roof so we lay there listening, got up slowly and chatted for awhile about the day before. We then got out to get the gear cleaning underway and removing excess sand and salt water from everything that the rain had not managed to clean away.  Then we headed off for a reccy of the Mahia Peninsula; how it all looked and where the best checkpoints would be.  It rained most of the day, there was a lot of mist and low cloud about where we are so we spent it planning and looking at the upcoming weather hoping that the wind and swells will be kind to us and enable me to get to Napier by Saturday.  We may just have to wait and see.

Tomorrow is about sight seeing around this gorgeous peninsula, and not racing from one point to another, that will come again soon enough.  We have been told that there is great Paua at one location and I tried to get the okay from the support team to let me go for a snorkel out at the point and grab some paua on my way around.  They are not too keen, as I am solo, but will see how I get on when I get to the location.  If it is low tide, well, maybe.  Will keep you updated.

We also went to the hot springs tonight in Morere.  It is in a great location and I recommend the walk to the springs, a very tranquil piece of bush.  We soaked for awhile and then my stomach was demanding dinner so we headed back for a cook up.

Yep my favourite food at the moment is barbecued steak with fried eggs.  Tonight we had another yummy feast, crispy pan cooked potatoes with onions and bacon, topped with wilted spinach and a couple of barbecued mushrooms.  Yes, there is plenty left for my breakfast.

We watched the sunset go down tonight, the sky is clearing.  Ha but have left the campervan doors open for too long and we have a mass of mosquitos to dispose of before bed!  Reg is on a mission as I type this blog, oh dear the noise of a mosquito in your ear!

Well night night, more sea adventures tomorrow, heres hoping for calm and sunny day with a nice rolling light swell and maybe some dolphins or an orca fin.

Red

Walk to the Morere Hot Springs

Walk to the Morere Hot Springs

DAY 20...Tatapouri to Pukenui Beach.. Phew

The next time I promise myself a short day.. I am not going to believe the lies I spin myself to get on the water.

I knew it was going to be a possible big one as the weather is turning into a glorious headwind tomorrow and so off I went.  The first 10km was good, then across to Nicks head.  In my world this was tough going today but at last across and, guess what, no VHF as I was on the back end of the Nicks Head, and no cellphone coverage.  Eventually we made contact, yippee for SPARK, they won today with coverage.

Well I turned at first to call it a day, paddled 2.5km and realised this is a no go, I would have to turn and go further down the coast with a big wind and swell with me, for 26km.  I knew there was not going to be any spots to meet the crew, so inside I made a promise to myself that if i kicked this over then I would be having a day off on Monday.

Fed myself and drank coffee in a sheltered nook, mentally preparing myself for the next long slog.  The swell lifted me high and the wind gusts got me so lots of low paddling and lots of bracing.  Even when you think you are in smooth water back comes the wind.  The coast line is remote and isolated with many steep rock faces, you always know that there is no chance to land when you do not even see a house up on the cliffs.

How do I deal with this long paddle?  Well I break things into small sections, 10km chunks, then a rest and then tell myself you are halfway now and you are counting down after that.  It seems to work for me most of the time, easily tracked as my Garmin vibrates on my wrist at every km paddled.

As I got further down the coastline I talked with the land crew and am told that my beach landing is going to be rather knarly, I am so happy, NOT!  Anyway what will be will be.  Off shore wind and BIG Swell...all I can say about this landing is that my kayak and I got to the beach at different times.  I swam the last 200m in, or lets say surfed with the massive breakers.

Cold and wet but all safe and accounted for.  We will rinse my wonderful Red kayak well tomorrow, first thing was to dry out and warm up.  I am taking a break because I can and because you know what, I am on my summer holiday and I want to see the coastline by road for a little tomorrow and scope out landing points and road access.

I am glad today is over, I am glad of all that looked out for me on this long, windy, eventful day.  As always hot food ready thanks to the amazing team I have.

Sorry for the late blog, just lots to do and lots to clean.

Red

Looking out over Young Nick's Head

Looking out over Young Nick's Head

Mahia Peninsula

Mahia Peninsula


DAY 19...Tologa Bay to Tatapouri Campsite

I went to bed thinking that today would be a little tough.  I woke with a calm sea and calm skies and it was warmer than I expected.  That calm feeling only lasted until I popped the head of my red kayak around the point, and yes, as I thought, two metre plus swells greeted me.  Do you love big seas?  Well I like them as a rule, but at the start of a new day and when you have been off the water for two days the idea of swells was not plesant.  With a big swell one side and then the swell backwash from the steep cliffs on the other, ohhh yes it was so much fun.  Then I had a strong cold southerly blowing at me and the next 12kms was a time to reflect on what I was doing.  I was convincing myself at every paddle stroke that I was coming off the water at the first VHF checkpoint.  What would you know, the waves and surf were so BIG at that point, there were surfers out and also Jetskiers riding the waves.  Much fun for them but for me to actually land was going to be a bad experience.  Totally entertaining for Nat and anyone on the beach but not something I wanted to display.  And I would have been OH SO grumpy with myself for packing it in early.

I could see sunshine and I just had to try to get closer to the cliff face in front of me, get some calm away from the wind and drink the thermos of coffee that Nat had made for me earlier.  After a rather one sided conversation on the VHF and concerned comments from Nat I pushed on, hoping the Predict Wind App was telling the truth and the wind was going to drop and swing to be more beneficial.

I got to the calmer area and I got to sit in the sun, drink my coffee and regroup my rather ugly negative thoughts.  I said " SO" to myself and sat for a good 20mins soaking up the sun and thinking...

Then it was around the next point out the back of more breakers and I had 17km to cover.  I refocused and concentrated on everything in front of me.  I looked later at my Garmin to realise I had covered 14km of my next leg.  I actually got a bit of a fright as it seemed a little easier and it was great that I had been so focused on my paddling and the waves and the sunshine that this middle section had flown past.  I smiled inside and thanked all for helping me push past that ugly first 10km and was pleased I had pressed on.

I tried to VHF at the next point but only got a little coverage and then they had gone.  With no mobile and no VHF I paddled to the far end of Whangara Beach, hoping to see them there.  The only good thing at this end of the beach was I was sheltered from the wind and swell so I got to sit and rest.  No sight of the team (later I discovered they had been there but it had taken me too long to get to that end of the beach they thought I had gone past) but no worries, I had to head back out and around as the cut through was a no go, to shallow and way to much surf on the other side.  Out over the swell again and to a safe distance to head to the next checkpoint which was 12km further on at Tatapouri.

I paddled this section till the 6km mark and at this stage could see caravans and campsites so headed in that direction.  At 8.5km I thought cool, a beach I can see people, and I tried the team on the VHF.  They picked up and said they were on the beach...well for the life of me as I got closer not a pink top to be seen.  No VHF coverage with them initially, then we made scratchy contact, this was strange as the closer I got, the worse the contact was.  It got worse and worse and then non existant!  By this stage, my dear Nat, had run back down the road over a hill and in the distance I could see this pink shirt!  I was a bay early!  I should have known as my Garmin does not get distances wrong.  Oh well that was 30mins of rest and I assured them I was fine to paddle onto towards the campsite.

After that it was all good.  I managed to sneak in through the rocks and breakers and land at the boat ramp.  There was a group further along feeding stingray as I pulled onto the sand.  A nice landing, and the BEST part of the day, in fact the best part of each day is when I see the pink shirts on the beach!  That actually rocks my world.

THANKS SUPPORT TEAM.  I am in debt to you all.

Food, water and lots of coffee needed as lack of food today on the water.  Oops, yes I was bad today and am sure I will suffer for not eating enough.  The team had a yummy coffee ready so I sat and ate brownie with honey, coconut oil and a large, hot, sweet coffee.  A blissful shower to get warm and a full tummy...happy Red.

That is it from me tonight, Nat is off to Auckland for a week and Reg is in the KSP role.
Red

Pink shirt searching for a kayak at Whangara Beach

Pink shirt searching for a kayak at Whangara Beach

DAY 18...Another Windy Day

We knew last night there was no chance of attempting to paddle today and the weather man was spot on.  Intense gales, more heavy rain and a very cold night.  We even had the heater on in Cuzzie last night before bed!

Up and doing stuff at bout 6ish, I am always hopeful the weather may have gone past faster than had been predicted.  I checked the three forecast apps we have and all said a big negative to any paddling.  Wind and gusts worse than yesterday.  Oh well we had things to do and have kept ourselves entertained.

Coffee brekkie and then we got our running clothes on!  Off we went for an off-road track/coastal run to Captain Cooks lookout and a couple of bays over the other side of Tolaga Bay.  Long legged Nat was setting the pace.  Once we were out and doing it we had a fun couple of hours climbing hills, rock hopping and taking crazy images.

Back for hot showers, more coffee and to get washing and food done.  I talked to some media and generally got a lot sorted and ready for a possible paddle day tomorrow.  Nat has been editing video footage and I have been talking with a couple of people

By the way, thanks for all the likes on Redz NZ Journey Facebook page!  We are now into 300+ likes.  This feels awesome but we are aiming for a like per kilometre travelled, so keep sharing and keep getting us those likes.

We have at last got some sunshine in the sky and things are warming up, but there are dark clouds everywhere and I think it will rain again really soon.  Camp cat has now found new friends, she even comes into the campervan to say hello, we are sure we could smuggle her out as a mascot.  I'm not sure if we have room for her as well, maybe she could just sit in my deck bag and come for a paddle each day...I doubt it!

Other campers have arrived and are setting up for the night, it is always entertainment for us as we watch the antics and manoeuvres and the domestic arguments.  Dinner is on and I am on cooking duty, it is very much a relaxed day for me and cooking is part of my wind down habits.  As is doing the dishes and general campervan stuff.

Lets hope for a good day tomorrow, I will be on the water and I will get a few kms under my belt.  The distance is really dependant on how strong the swell is and also the wind.  I am hoping to get to Gisborne, BUT there are doubts.  We will see what the new day brings.  New support team member arriving in the morning, he is flying into Gisborne and Nat will pick him up once I have departed.

The camp cat has just delivered us a dead bird!  Presents for us now, however we declined the offer of this for dinner and kindly let the cat devour the bird.

I have to say that Nat has found such a pearl of a video, she is so so wrapped with this footage of me.  Well lets just say, it ain't a glamour event or a Miss Universe competition, but REALLY Nat?!  This footage is pretty raw and rough and I am cringing already but you all want to see me out there so watch, laugh and enjoy.  At least I am using sunscreen and lots by the look!!!

Red

Hole in the rock at Cooks Cove

Hole in the rock at Cooks Cove