Day 314...Back By the Ocean

We had had a late night, as mentioned in yesterday’s blog, so as the others slept in this morning, I remained quietly in my corner of the camper-van reading, looking at the news for the day online and generally trying really hard to let the men get their much-needed eight hours of sleep. By 9am, I had made enough noise wriggling about in my sleeping bag to wake both of them up, so we had a late Sunday morning breakfast with my efforts at pancakes and cups of coffee for Jase and I, while Martin feasted on the Freya bread he is so in love with and the huge bottle of Lewis Road chocolate milk I got him the other day.

We have a couple of things to do this morning as T2 is being sent back up north for repairs, so we have to unload her from Cuzzie and reload her onto Jase’s ute. What with having to lower her, then get the cradles down off the camper-van roof and up onto the roof rack of the ute, we reckoned it would take a while. As it seemed easier to do all this in a driveway, we went off to Jason’s Dad’s place, firstly, to say “Happy Father's Day!” then to get the work done. We entertained his Dad for a short time but soon he wandered off inside, leaving us to get on with it. In no time at all, it seemed, having done all the lifting and carrying, we were strapping T2 onto the roof of the ute for her trip north. “Goodbye girl, thanks for all your hard work!” The fact that she needs to be repaired is not at all her fault, I take full responsibility for the damage to the kayak and I’m hoping to have her fixed up and ready to use again once I’m back in my home city.

Before long we were heading back into town to find somewhere for lunch, after which we also had to say our farewells to Jase, thanking him for having driven down and for taking T2 back with him. I felt somewhat sad as we followed along behind the ute on State Highway 3. It’s so weird being back in the North Island and really hard to adjust after having spent so long in the south. To be honest, I’m still finding the return north my biggest challenge. 

Far too soon, we were waving goodbye to Jase and T2 at the Bulls’ turn-off, as he headed up to Auckland and we continued straight ahead towards Cape Egmont. If only I had a magic wand, at that very moment I would have waved it and made one wish. No, not to be home but rather, to be making steady progress and for calm waters so I can start paddling again. I so badly want to get back on the water but, alas, I have no such magic wand, so my wish couldn’t be granted. It’s not going to be happening on this coast over the next few days!

Again, I have to remind myself to be kind to myself; to remind myself yet again that August was a record month for paddling and I can only hope and pray that I am going to get as many days’ paddling this month. Or will September be the month I hit zero? Now that really would set a new record!! Jeez, I’m glad I can still laugh about it but, then, I have to find humour in this mad, crazy world I’m in. Thankfully, I still retain my twisted sense of humour.

With all these thoughts going round in my head, I sit in the passenger seat while Martin drives. The wind plays a game, trying to blow us sideways across the road as we travel along. We make only one stop along the way, to check out a beach landing just north of Hawera. Then we are off again, this time to set up camp for the night in Opunake. Perhaps not surprisingly, we’re the only people in the entire campsite. I’m happy to be back by the ocean again. We both go walking on the windy beach before the sun sets for the day. It’s a mild 14 degrees tonight and there I am on the beach, wading in bare feet, amazed at how much warmer it seems than a couple of weeks ago. Martin clambers over rocks and continues up onto the northern cliffs. While he wanders about up in the wind and the gentle rain, I stay down on the beach rock-hopping until he returns. Then it’s time for Day 3 of the new challenge to do twenty-two push-ups for twenty-two days. As I struggle to finish, Martin starts showing off by going on to do another twenty or so push-ups, for a real challenge.

Tonight we ate early. I had the difficult task of getting the baked potatoes just right and the pork crackling crispy, while Martin got the job of barbecuing the pork chops (mmmm!). Dinner eaten, new DOC tracks have been found and planning for tomorrow has begun. We are going to go hiking, then find a vantage point to watch the huge waves that are forecast. Sure, it’s going to rain buckets and blow a gale, but the new saying in Cuzzie is: “There’s no such thing as bad weather, it’s you that has bad gear!!”

My smiles today:
Perfecting my breakfast of pancakes.
Visiting upcoming beach landings.
Finding peace again at the ocean’s edge.
Wading knee-deep in the waves.
The wind blowing in my face.
My memories of down south.

My thoughts today:
Life is like a road trip. Enjoy each day and don't carry too much baggage!

Goodnight! From Red and Martin. Ma Te Wa.

Opunake Beach. Grey, stormy clouds on a grey evening.

The Foxton windmill.

Day 313...Fortunately and Unfortunately

Fortunately, I know a few families and other people around this area as, unfortunately, it’s another day off the water. Late last night, Jason had driven down to say “Hi!” for the next few days and fortunately, he was on the dinner run. Pasha Kebabs, an iconic food place that always satisfies my hunger. We were all starving by the time he arrived but they were worth waiting for and certainly not a disappointment.

An okay morning had greeted us with numerous clouds chasing each other across the sky. We had some plans and, although we spent some time chatting to our neighbour with the pet lamb, it was time to get moving before the day raced away from us. At one stage, early in the morning, I had thought I could have jumped into the local swimming pool and done some therapeutic lane-swimming before breakfast but unfortunately, I wasn’t well organised enough.

As this is Jason’s local haunt we left Cuzzie to rest for the day and jumped into his hire car to be driven about, with me hoping soon to be back beside the waves. But, as we were land-locked again, unfortunately I just had to accept "what will be, will be". Quickly we grabbed some food supplies, then headed for cups of tea and a chat with friends, picking their brains on various hiking locations. This was not only in an effort to keep me from going nuts but also to show Martin some new places every day while he spends time with Redz NZ Journey.

We decide to encourage Kelly to join us and off we race to pack our backpacks and get on the Sledge Track. It starts off as an easy walk beside a fast-flowing creek with swimming holes and great little picnic spots. But, gradually, it gets steeper as we reach the top elevation point, with a few loop tracks through toetoe and past old platinum mines. We see tuis and wood pigeons above and hear a couple of bird calls that I can’t quite place. About two and a half hours into our hike, fortunately it seems that this trek has a lot more to offer than yesterday’s and, as we shelter from the gale that is blowing up at the top, while eating our lunch we have great sweeping views even on this rather cloudy day.

Now was the fun part, down and round to the mines. It’s really good to be away from the city and wonderful to discover these great tracks. For me, cities are places that unfortunately numb my mind, where my thoughts get jumbled and I lose my sense of direction, finding that I just wander round in circles, feeling as if I have achieved nothing. As we all get to the base of the track, back to the huge rocks and swimming holes, it’s time for the push-up challenge, so we each do our allotted twenty-two. Again, Martin nails them perfectly, whereas for me, well they were done, but they still aren’t very pretty! As we clamber off the rocks, Martin stops and starts removing his shoes. I was thinking it was to remove a stone but, no, he wanted go for a swim to cool off! Really? Well, I’m never one to refuse to get wet, so I join him. As I jump off the rock into the water, Jase is saying “Wait for me!” but Kelly is not keen on joining us. It’s cold but refreshing to have washed off the sweat and mud from the hike and fun to be standing drying off and thinking how warm it feels out of the water. Our T-shirts become our towels and Kelly is on camera duty. What a great way to end this hike!

Back into town, a hot cup of kawa kawa tea (thanks to Jason who had picked fresh leaves while hiking). Then we were saying our “goodbyes” before getting back on the road. Now in a convoy with Cuzzie and Jase’s ute; off to visit more friends. The day ended with a delicious dinner, lots of laughter, stories and chatting. Before too long, we realised that it was really late and we still had to get settled in our campsite for the night so, reluctantly, we headed off into the night, tired and happy with a day that had been jam-packed with adventures, friends, new sights and sounds and lots of new stories.

I have to say that, at the moment, I’m having to push really hard to keep finding new discoveries. For me, this has always been a part of New Zealand in which I’ve had difficulty in willingly stopping for any length of time. But, now that I’ve been forced to stop and spend some time here, Mother Nature has decided I need to discover the beauty of this area. Each day, I now find something different to do or see instead of just sitting saying I’m bored, and that I don't like things. Now I make a point of finding something I do like, and fortunately, I now also have an off-water challenge. As I sit and listen to the ocean in the distance, with the others sleeping soundly around me it seems that, deep down, somehow I knew I would be halted for a while on this section of the New Zealand coastline.

My smiles today:
Hiking in the hills around Palmerston North.
Jumping into the cold water to go swimming.
Day 2 of pathetic push-ups on my part.
Reconnecting with great people.
Martin, Jase and Kelly on the hike today.
The reassuring sound of other people sleeping.

My thoughts today:
I like those random memories that make me smile, no matter what is going on in my life.

A very late goodnight to all from a happy but very tired Red and the entire team.

Ma Te Wa.

Hiking the Sledge Track.

DAY 312...Wind Windmills and Walking!

This morning, the first thing I have to say is that I was treated to the best Angus steak dinner last night. The steaks were thick and juicy, exactly how real meat should be; a truly delicious dinner, Trent. I have to confess, I didn’t feel the earthquake. I may have stirred but I’m so used to Cuzzie rocking about due to wind gusts that I didn’t even think there was anything unusual or different, at least not until I read the news this morning. But it must have been a heck of a jolt for many people.

After a yummy breakfast, we went to feed two pet lambs which, for me, was a trip down the memory lane of my childhood, recalling our yearly pet lambs that I totally adored. These two were both very cute. Thanks, Cam, for letting us share in the feeding. Martin and myself are still smiling, all the more so, remembering how the lambs came running round the paddock with us after they had been fed. Then we all headed off to start what turned out to be quite an entertaining day.

Firstly, Trent and Cam came back to watch the final day of the netball with us before we went hiking to see the huge windmills in the Manawatu Gorge. Having decided that the “there and back” option of the full Gorge walk was the only one worth doing, off we set with backpacks and nibbles packed. I have to admit that I was a little concerned as my legs are not nearly as long as Martin’s and I only hoped that I would be able to keep up. At the end of the day, however, the pace was pretty even, so I needn’t have worried unduly. As we got into the actual hike, a couple of people were heading back down the track from an earlier hike. Then another person stopped to let us pass. Believe it or not, we recognised each other! How truly crazy is that, out on a bush walk and I bump into Kelly! I think we were both rather surprised but, after the initial "no way” moments, we hugged and chatted and now we have a catch-up planned for tomorrow.

Off we headed again and up we climbed before coming across some fat wood pigeons, hearing some tuis and seeing some fantails coming out to play as well. Then there was a new sound, the noise of the windmills turning and soon, they too came into view. When we got up close, they seemed huge. Personally, I think they are rather cool and to be honest, I find them absolutely fascinating and love seeing them standing on the hillside. Then, having climbed up to the top of the hill, we wandered down the other side to the end of the track. We saw Nikau Palms and large Matai, as well as lots of other beautiful bush around us. At one stage, we could hear loud music down in the valley but couldn’t work out exactly where it was coming from. When we got to the end of the track, we sat and ate a few snacks.

Before heading back on the return walk, I accepted a crazy challenge from a friend in Auckland. To try to do 22 press-ups for 22 days in an attempt to raise awareness about the huge amount of returned servicemen worldwide who are suffering from depression, of whom 22 per day apparently commit suicide! Accordingly, Martin and I did our first set of press-ups. Mine were pathetic but Martin’s were way too bloody good. Then we had the return 10km hike back to Cuzzie. By the 5km stage, all I could do was talk about food which seemed to make Martin’s long legs move all the faster and indeed, our return trip turned out to be some 25 minutes quicker. It was a nice hike and good to have actually been and done it, and not just keep driving past all the time.

Back in the camper-van, there was a long silence while we both just sat and ate. We were more than a little bit hungry by the finish today! The next step was to clean Cuzzie, to remove all the muck and grime off her after so many months on the gravel and muddy roads. Now, she’s smiling again, too. A campsite was located, thanks to the amazingly generous people of the Palmerston North Holiday Park. Wow, you guys rock! Raewyn, you need to bottle your lovely personality. What a great welcome you gave us! Then it was chill-out time, with some book reading and me re-stocking the cupboards with a box of supplies I got yesterday. Just as I was finishing I saw another a sight for sore eyes, a pet lamb that belonged to and lived in the camper-van that had just pulled up next door. In all my days of travelling, this is a “first” for me, a pet lamb on tour in a camper-van! That’s a “must do” for tomorrow, to find out the whole story about the baby lamb.

My smiles today:
Memories of a huge Angus steak.
Pet lambs on the farm and in a neighbour’s camper-van. Quite simply adorable.
Windmills. Insanely cool.
Hiking in the hills.
The silence when you are so hungry, all you can do is eat!
The new 22 press-up challenge.

My thoughts today:
Give someone a compliment.
Make a new friend, do a random act of kindness because it creates good karma.
Take chances and finally, start living life to the full.
No matter what is thrown at you today, smile and remember that tomorrow is a new day.

Until then, goodnight from Red, Martin and a sparkling Cuzzie.

Ma Te Wa.

Windmills. Huge and amazing.

Pet lambs playing.

DAY 311...Down Day

After 300 plus days, at last I’m in tune with what my weather info tells me. I wake at 5am, just to make sure nothing nuts has happened and the calm is hanging around for longer than the first few hours of this morning. Just as predicted, the weather window had shrunk even more, so I roll over and listen to the West Coast waves hitting the beach and am actually truly okay with a down day. But, before 7am, I get up and head to the campsite showers to over-indulge in high pressure hot water showers with no actual money needed to give you the hot water. It’s a real luxury, having a huge shower and endless hot water, even after just a couple of days of freedom camping. I must be getting a tad soft. Or is it that I’ve been very lucky and utterly spoilt to be in real homes far too often lately?

Once we get organised, we sit and plan the day. We’re on a mission, as you know, so I can't possibly sit still. It’s into Foxton to grab a parcel from home with some supplies and to chat to Jase’s Dad for a little while. I had to chuckle, as we arrived way too early and found him still in his dressing gown!! Got to love the retired life-style, not a care in the world! We moved a couple of things and sat down for a while to chat or rather, we listened as he chatted! Then we hit the road to grab some extra supplies of Waireka "bush blend" honey. After that, we went into Whanganui to grab some lunch and encountered some supermarket chaos that I was pleased to escape.

After that, we played catch-up, watching Trent and Jeanette's daughter, Jess, playing in a huge school netball tournament. Now, when I was at school, I was absolutely useless at the game. Today, it made me think that maybe I’d be better. Well, maybe not, especially considering I like paddling solo. This team thing could present me with some new challenges!

We jumped in Cuzzie and headed off to check out some beach landings as I can’t stand the unknown elements of this section. We drove and we looked. I sort of smiled at some and looked at others and went “No bloody way!” Or rather, I sat while being driven in Cuzzie, as Martin actually enjoys driving Cuzzie. But then, everyone seems to enjoy driving Cuzzie. Well, maybe not everyone, as my navigation skills involve going round the streets of Whanganui far too many times! I blame Google Maps whereas, in actual fact, it’s more likely to be my driving! Anyways, we’re heading back down State Highway 3. We have an offer of dinner and the chance of a bit of a catch-up, so both of us are making the most of each other’s company.

It’s been another long day, and again tomorrow there are going to be more places I haven’t yet seen. New Zealand, you keep surprising me and even though this coastline is rugged, there’s still time to get to know you and enjoy what you have to offer. After all, every beach has a beautiful day and an ugly day.

My smiles today:
Whitebait nets in all the rivers.
Long, hot showers.
Paddocks full of newborn lambs.
The first day of Spring.
Finding new, as yet undiscovered, locations.

My thoughts today:
Just because there’s a smile on my face doesn't mean that there’s not something bothering me. It's just that I choose not to dwell on negatives!

Good night from Red, Martin, Cuzzie and my stars. Ma Te Wa.

A rough river entrance.

The unknown up ahead.

Day 310...Long and Lonely Day

Back into the adrenaline packed beach launching on the West Coast. There is no reason for coffee on days like today. Another heart in mouth launch. As I have said before it will be the adrenaline in my system that kills me. As I get out the back on a calm West Coast day, I have a quick chat with Martin to say thanks for the good launch and the yell of encouragements as I hit the first foaming wave and battled through a few more. I think the worst was the mountain of water that loomed in front of me and all I could do was tell myself to paddle and tell the wave to please start to break. It listened and I got over the top and thumped onto the back of the wave. It could have been a lot different, but today I was soon safe far past the breakers. But it does not leave your mind; each of these escapes, and all along the coast, you are reminded to keep a watchful eye over your left shoulder for a wall of water aiming your way. Just when you think you have headed far enough away from the shoreline, a big rolling wave seems to loom down on you. Not breaking, but making damn sure you remember they are there and just waiting to catch you out!

A few checkpoints today. Probably as much for me as for Martin. Waitarere Beach, Foxton Beach, Himatangi Beach, and then the end of today was ahead of me. I was now not looking forward to much, as I was certainly going to have to swim part of this beach landing. The coastline just keeps on with the same intense waves and crashing into the beach. The sweeps are small at the moment. Holy heck what would it be like on a stormy day? It is not worth thinking about as some of these breakers make me feel a little sickened by their strength. I drink my fluids and I try and to eat, but all of today was focused on the landing and on counting wave sets as I paddled up the coast, asking myself if I could see a pattern or could I see a possible dry landing. I was also telling myself that it is going to be the same for many days to come so best you get used to it.

Foxton River, what a nasty looking piece of water. I was way out the back and still I nearly did not go far enough and had to turn and paddle like heck over one huge wall of water that tried to hurl itself upon me as a surprise! I was thinking earlier it could be an option! That was a bloody stupid idea.

Tangimoana. As I sat and weighed up the beach, way out the back of the breaking waves, I sighed, ate, drank, and then as planned, waited until I could see that big wave come through and pass under me. Then I quickly checked I had it right and that nothing else was lining over my shoulder, and I paddled. I was a long way out when this sprint started and had to dig and dig and dig even deeper to keep going. A foaming mass tried to get me as I got within metres of the beach. But my side bracing saved me from a total swim and I was safe with Martin dragging my kayak in towards the beach as I waded along in ankle deep water, still panting from my long sprinting session, but happy with another firm landing being nailed. Don't get me wrong I am not bragging as Mother Nature will win a round soon enough and nail me upside down in the water, but for now I can feel proud.

As I get to the edge of the beach I am greeted by a wonderful sight. I see a couple of known faces on the beach running towards me. Trent, it's so great to be on your coast at long last. Thanks for the wonderful welcome. We chat as I pack up my wet gear, get warm and start to load up Louise onto Cuzzie. Once locked and loaded we aim back down the coast to Foxton in order to pick up a food and supplies parcel. On the way we get a call from Melz and Max Grant and we catch-up for a chat. Thank you for coming to see me, it was totally wonderful to meet you both at last. I reckon it is not the last time we will see each other; the weather is about to blow again and so I am planning more coastal checks, tourist sight seeing and watching the beaches as the swells pickup. Tonight I can hear the waves on the beach. The crazy West Coast, it is relentless.

My smiles today:
Success on my beach launch and landing
To my old and new friends. Thanks for taking the time to come and say hi.
Max and Melz. Thanks for the beautiful book.
To the support crew. Who make this all possible.

My thoughts today:
Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations.

Goodnight from Red. 

Ma Te Wa.

Tangimoana Beach.

Day 309...Away We Go

With us all up way too early, and Nat collected and bundled in the back of Cuzzie, we were all off out to Titahi Bay for my launch. It seemed very long this drive, probably my nerves were kicking in and probably for good reason. It was a longish paddle for my first day and even though I do trust my weather reports, I also have a nagging doubt some days.

This morning Titahi Bay was a calm mill pond and I got myself ready and onto the water just after 7am. Well, after I cleaned my croc of the dog poo I managed to stand in! Now that ain't a smile to start the day. Nat and Martin stood by as I launched, and Conrad had also come along to say farewell. Thanks guys for the farewell waves! Then I was on my own. I was actually unsure of what to expect. Initially it was a lovely coastline with rocks and lovely bays. Mana Island seemed huge this morning and as I settled into my paddling I started to feel okay.

The first checkpoint at 18km was just a little slower than I would have liked. But I was moving forward and we rescheduled the next checkpoint for 14km up the coastline. Then the current and the wind changed and I slowed to under 6km per hour. Today I told myself to just forget the pace and keep going steadily forward. It was not rough, just a battle with the tides and a steady head wind. Eventually I talked with the team and Nat mentioned that I had slowed from my normal pace. It was now to be a chat every 10km as we tried to locate somewhere that looked half okay to land! I had started to check out the waves. I tried to count sets and watch the big ones smash into the beach, and I continued to check if there was going to be any gaps and a chance to wing a dry landing, or was it going to be a swim to the beach scenario as I got nailed by a big thumper wave.

I am not sure of anyone else but it starts to weigh heavy on your mind as you watch them roll underneath you, lifting myself and Louise up, and then when they get closer to the beach they crash and then foam up the beach. I kept assuring myself that there had been worse beaches to land on and chatted with Nat about the upcoming coast. Otaki came and went and then we got as close to Waikawa Beach as possible and soon I saw the pink shirt on the beach. We then had a discussion about the waves and what the landing plan was. "Yuck" I said. I felt nervous and the adrenaline started to pump. I sat and ate a chocolate bar, sucked back some sweet Ribena, and then wave watched and counted. Then I turned and paddled at the back of a biggish wave. I seem never to have the speed to keep on the back of these waves. But paddle, and brace, and paddle I did and today I stayed dry; there was no swimming to the beach. Martin grabbed the front of my kayak and hauled me up the beach. Still sick to the stomach I clamber out. Happy, but knowing full well it will not be like that every time. But I will take the congrats from the support team and I accepted the two of them carting the kayak back up the beach to Cuzzie. Day one done and dusted.

Hot coffee, sweet hot popcorn and then load and on the move. We drive and drop dearest Nat at the nearest train station. Waikanae and then head back north to camp for the night. I do laugh as we setup to cook dinner. There is zero cell phone or internet coverage. Crazy but true.

Anyway dinner cooked, blog written and now it is time for bed. The native frogs are singing. A friendly young cat has arrived asking for food. Now this I do find sad. Where and who does this kitten belong to?!

Martin has successfully completed his first day with the team and is running solo with me tomorrow. I am grateful for his help for the next few legs of this journey and then he will head south to check out more of NZ.

Until tomorrow. Goodnight.

My smiles today:
Me and my nerves!
Nat back on the team for just today.
Huge and yummy homemade sausages.
Success with my beach landing!
Phone calls from a couple of true friends.

My thoughts today:
Ninety-nine percent of everything you worry about never happens!

Goodnight to you all from Red, Nat, Martin and my star kayaks.

Ma Te Wa.

Day 308...The Waiting Begins

Today was the start of a new week. Nearly the end of August and I have done the most paddling in one month that I have done for a very long time; and still it's not enough. I went walking early this morning and the clouds looked like finger trails through the sky; rippled and fine threads as the sun rose and then changed them to rainbow colours. It would have been nice to just walk for hours around the bush tracks and the hillsides in Khandallah but alas, I had a day of prep to get myself and Cuzzie sorted and ready for possible paddle days later this week.

It was just boring mundane stuff you all do, like washing and supermarket shopping for supplies. The best part was me finding a local butchers to buy my meat supplies. I am always on the look out for a good butcher. I spent well with them and then as the afternoon arrived way too quickly I got my stuff stowed away in Cuzzie. The water tank was refilled, I installed the missing caps for the water tank and the grey water holding tank. I re-wrote my coastline plans, so the rest of the team could actually read them and it was not in my terrible handwriting!

Then it was off to catch up with Nat and spend time chatting with her and her relatives, Lib and Werner. This is always a fun time. There were lots of stories, knitting hints and yummy nibbles. Today I was to sample the Whittakers K Bar chocolate. Has it converted me? Sadly no! I still just like my plain dark chocolate. 

Tonight is about getting ready. I dropped Nat off and say see you early tomorrow, and I sit at the Wellington Railway Station awaiting another support person to assist for the next few days. They are sharing the challenge of getting me on the water together tomorrow and the challenge of collecting me at the end of the day.

Fingers crossed on the paddle, it will be one of those sleepless nights tonight, so I prepare for a day, or a few hours, on the water. Tough mentally for sure, but probably tougher on the two crew as we start the journey north. Well, fingers crossed. At the end of the day, Mother Nature has the last word on the launch and my day.

My smiles today:
A beautiful morning sky.
Nerves as I pack Cuzzie. 
My days in Wellington.
New support crew. They have been warned.
A rowing challenge to catch me begins at Health and Sports Auckland today.

My thoughts today:
"Every risk is worth taking as long as it is for a good cause and contributes to a good life." - Richard Branson

Goodnight from Red, Cuzzie and the team.
Ma Te Wa.

PLEASE TXT REDZ TO 2446 TO DONATE $3 TO MHFNZ

Waiting on arrivals.

Day 307...Fun Sunday Food Truck and Nat

The wind whistling woke me as the sun was waking up this morning. I was not the only one wanting a calm Bluebird day. For my hosts, Ness and Grant, it meant no skiing, and Jase also is weather watching for a few days of skiing. Neither ventured to the mountains. It was, maybe, not the right moment for skiing. I understood totally.

Out for a quick run, then a classic Sunday cooked breakfast and a couple of cups of coffee. After that I joined in on a few hours of repainting of a downstairs room. Undercoating was my task and I was happy to oblige. There is not a lot you can do wrong when undercoating! I like painting and put in a good few hours, then it was time to pickup Nat and head off to a Food Truck gathering at the Trentham race course. It was busy and we queued to order. We stood and waited; it was rather a long process, but at last we sat, ate, drank and chatted about the months we have been apart. There are some amazing stories and there is never enough time to relay and remember them all. We listen, we talk, and we interrupt each other. It is great. Then both cold and needing a hot drink we head into the city. Story time over pots of peppermint tea. What a lovely afternoon. But soon it was time to head off to meet other friends and go our separate ways for the rest of the night.

You all are asking is she back as my full time support person. Sadly no, but Mother Nature may be kind and allow Nat one or two days with me before she heads away north again. She will be welcomed back whenever she wishes to return. I would even sleep in the passenger seat of Cuzzie to make room for her return!

Another week starts tomorrow. The end of August is looming and I have my eyes turned to the upcoming forecasts. Waiting, watching and counting down until the next leg starts. New crew will be arriving. The ocean watching is starting soon. Paddling stories may soon return.

My smiles today:
Painting and hardly any mess.
Time with Nat.
Organising crew.
Others also weather watching.

My thoughts today:
Never underestimate the difference you can make in the lives of others. Step forward. Reach out and help. This week reach out to someone that might need a lift.

Enjoy your new week. Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

PLEASE TXT REDZ TO 2446 TO DONATE $3 TO MHFNZ.

Day 306...Markets and Chocolate

I could hear the wind this morning from a very warm bed in the suburbs of Wellington. It is still dark, but as always I check the weather updates, frown and turn to a book I am reading. This keeps me in bed and quiet for a little while. By 7.30am I am on the footpath and the streets, waking the legs and lungs up to a short run. The hills are steep so I power walk up them and then run everything else, ending up at the local supermarket for breakfast supplies.

Once home I place myself in front of my laptop making a mental note I had to sit and write until 10.00am. This is something I find difficult to do, always finding a reason to move away from my laptop. Give me the option to run around the streets again or to do laptop stuff and the answer each time would be the activity, not the tapping of the keyboard. Anyway I was pretty good and only deviated from this writing task for 30 mins when I took a phone call or two.

Once my brainstorm and general lines where written down I pack it all up. I pack my day backpack, then I am off to the city with Cuzzie. I am going wandering about the underground Wellington markets. To my surprise the city is not as awash with rugby supporters as I would have thought. The markets had some pleasant surprises at some of the stalls, even an area of stalls for high school students who where selling creative products as a school business project. I found a chocolate stall with smiles aplenty. It is wonderful chatting with another chocolate fanatic. It has as much of a story as blends of coffee and for sure I bought a couple of small packets. I very much doubt I will be sharing.

Talking to stall holders is always very entertaining; they have numerous stories about their products and also themselves, and to be able to wander this market with no time restraints was brilliant. I also replaced my thread-bare leggings with a new pair today. As always size XXL, the bigger the better. Anyone who knows me or has meet me on this journey will know my favorite gear is my warm black leggings. They are my must wear garment.

Outside I sit and people watch while talking with my mate in Auckland (Sheena) about who and what has been going on in her world. It is always a hilarious conversation about life, people, and her world of circus performers and their outfits. She is creative and makes their garments. Check out circus scissors on Instagram.

Then it was time to go swimming. Time to calm my mind with water and lane swimming. I spent a pleasant hour in the water, then headed back home, passing the rugby fans making their way to the stadium and then indoors as it gets dark, cold and starts to rain. Roast pork for dinner and some of my yummy chocolate.

That is my Saturday. My world and another day over and out. If you watched the rugby and saw the fireworks displays and flames, that is Nat's handy work. Sitting on the roof tops of the stadium. It is going to be a great day tomorrow when we catch up and head to eat our way around the food-truck.

Until tomorrow, goodnight.

My smiles today:
Out on the streets of Wellington.
The market stall holders and the stories.
Spring flowers.
Gourmet Chocolate. 
Lane swimming.

My thoughts today:
I could give up chocolate, BUT I am not a quitter.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Chocolate heaven.

Day 305...Train Travel & OMG NAT

Most of you know already that I find what some see as boring fun, so today I had fun when most would just hate it. Firstly a walk run around the streets of Khandallah. To test my really bad mapping and navigation skills, I went without my mobile phone. Success! I actually managed to find my way back home! I am thrilled about this because all my support crew would tell you I am tragic at finding my way around the streets of towns and cities.

Once home I throw my gear in a backpack. I cook up my breakfast, quickly fill a container and then walk off towards the train station. It is such a thrill for me to be on public transport, on the train to Wellington. What a civilised way to get about this city. I have a smile already. Just sitting, looking about at everyone going about their day heading to work. There was an air of happiness; it is Friday in their working world and I notice everyone is in casual dress mode as well, compared to earlier in the week.

As I step off the train, the mist and the rain are arriving. I head towards the waterfront and again enjoy my amble along the this great walkway. Being passed by push bikes, runners, full sized scooters and skate boards. Everyone seems to have an alternative way of getting to work other than driving a car.

Swimming today. It took me a little while to get into the pools. I too have moments of "Really!? Do I have to? Why?". I sit outside under a tree and eat my breakfast while looking over the crap weather report! Then last stop was a cup of coffee to take with me to drink while I get ready for a swim. It takes me time, probably wishing in a way it was over. I finally slip into the water and as always wish it was a little warmer. Then I start to swim. The massage yesterday on my muscles had helped a lot. Quickly I was into a good rhythm. Today was a great swim. It worked and it did everything I needed. 125 lengths was a new record for me at these pools. Just over 4kms. I have to thank this journey for keeping me so fit and healthy. I get out, get changed and get ready to head back out into a wet and now very misty Wellington.

Onto the train and back towards Khandallah. I then sit down to write about the completion of the South Island, but my day got a little bit more exciting instead. My dear Nat has arrived in town for her work! We had the greatest catch-up. It has been such a long time, so much to chat about, so much to say!! Absolutely nothing was done on my laptop. I love catch-ups and hearing her travelling stories.

It has been a great day for me. Once I got over the initial crazy weather meltdown. My mood sunny and bright, which is totally opposite to the day's actual weather of misty, wet and grey. Tonight is dinner and (OMG) I watch a little TV, plan an action packed day tomorrow and also try to dodge the rugby crowds.

My smiles today:
Swimming is fun.
The trains. Love them.
Casual Friday's in Wellington.
New World metro.
Seeing Nat.

My thoughts today:
Sometimes you don't need a reason for doing everything in your life. Do it because you want to, because it's fun, because it makes you happy.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Day 304...Me

It's a me day. Up early and out for a walk with Ness and a friendly Ridgeback dog that she walks twice a week. I think we are just going for a fast walk, so I put on a hoodie, some woollen leggings and rain jacket. But we were running some of the way. I had the sweats by the end of our 45 minute outing. Then it was time for me to pack my small backpack for a train ride into the city. I walk to the pools along the cool Wellington waterside walkways. Everyday I find something new. The amount of artwork and sculptures in every nook and cranny I spy is really amazing. It is such a lovely waterfront area. It takes me a while to convince myself to get in the water today. But soon I get into a rhythm and stay lane swimming for just over an hour. That was enough. 

I then wander back to meet a fellow kayaker, Conrad, to chat about this coast and my favorite parts of the South Island over a wonderful lunch. After this it was time for me to get myself totally lost in and around the central city. I am amazed at how dam useless I am with my navigation skills when walking these streets. Anyway, in the end I locate the stores I am looking for; after about an hour of wrong turns. I needed to have been more observational early when Jase was guiding me about the streets. I smile and listen to a few street buskers and felt more at ease on the streets around Wellington, even as I was getting lost. I still felt happier today than earlier this week. 

Soon I had the urge to grab a coffee and just sit looking out at the harbour. To feel the wind in my face and sit and think. The day again flys by and I have one more treat for myself today. An upper body massage and it was rather a good way to end my day that was all about me. 

Thanks to everyone today. Are the weather and Mother Nature playing a nice fair game? No, they are treating me as per normal, testing my patience and my frown continues.

My smiles today:
Ness for sharing her walk and run time.
Freyberg pools. I like this place.
Conrad for his knowledge and my yummiest lunch.
Sunglass style. Thanks for my replacement Bolles.
Thanks Rach for my massage today. 
Ness and Grant for their Wellington bed.
Wonderful support crew offers.

My thoughts today:
"Remember that sometimes not getting what you want is a wonderful stroke of luck." --Dalai Lama.

Goodnight from a warm, cosy bed.
Red and Cuzzie.
Ma Te Wa.

View fullsize

Day 303...Cuzzie Duties

Today I began with a walk around the streets of Khandallah, then it was a Cuzzie day. Now when your poor, dear camper-van has covered over 25,000km, there are things that need to be done. Today I dedicated most of my day to Cuzzie. A full inside clean; well I tried to remove most of the sand, dust and dirt. It will take many more hours, maybe years, for all the sand to get removed. Things needed resorting and re-stacking. As mentioned, a self containment certification check was needed, and I had a couple of items to replace.

I stood inside Cuzzie, made myself a coffee and turned on some music. Then I cleaned. I wiped and dusted, repacked cupboards, threw some stuff out (like pebbles and stones I had collected along the way) and got her ready for the next leg of my journey. Then I drove to Newtown. I succeeded and got the tick of approval for the self containment certificate. Now for a drive all the way to Plimmerton to get a couple of caps for the camper-van waste water, and then back down the motorway so that I can call in to say hi to the team at Canoe and Kayak Wellington. It was nice to stop and see some friendly faces, and to talk about kayaks and paddling. Thanks guys, it was a nice end to my day.

But as always the day runs away with me and tonight I am on dinner duties. I head quickly back up the winding roads to get this underway. It has just been one of those days, not a moving north day, not a sightseeing day, just a day of stuff. Another day of getting things repaired and cleaned. I did get a lovely call to say Bolle had given me a replacement pair of sunglasses. I gifted my other pair to the ocean further south; yes the list of things lost to that wet, watery world is continually growing.

I have heard today from a few along this next section of the coastline and I have to say thanks for your offers of help and accommodation. I will be seeing you all soon, and taking you up on your services for sure!

Tomorrow it is a "me" day. A walk or run, some swimming and a catchup with another paddler. For the kayakers following me: sorry to say there are no paddling stories for a few days more. Probably more hiking and sightseeing than paddling.

A huge thanks to my generous hosts Grant and Ness. A truly wonderful bed and accommodation. I am very spoilt. Thanks to you both.

My smiles today:
Being told Cuzzie was well kitted out.
Chatting to a fellow camper-van convert.
Biggest smile is to Goggle maps.
Dinner from the "my food bag".
Big, comfy, soft bed. No numb fingers.
Calls from my support crew. Thanks team.

My thoughts today:
Never forget who helped you out while every one else was making excuses.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Wellington sunrise.

Day 302...Up the Coast to Look

A reconnaissance day for me today. This was a day for me to actually go and see the black beaches, feel the winds, watch the swells and count wave sets. All while sipping on a couple of Cuzzie made coffees.

I find it beneficial for my mind, on this coast, to know what I am to see and land on for just a little while. When I am able, it is good to study the beach and understand what the wind and the swells look like before you need to crash land or glide onto the beach. I do not think it is going to be gliding for awhile.

Off I head early towards Peka Peka Beach, Otaki Beach and then all the way up to Waitarere Beach. I walk around and look at the beaches. I watch the cars drive along the beach taking their dogs for a run without getting out of the drivers seat (slightly lazy, I feel). A horse being exercised on the beach. This is always a great sight; the rider and the horse seem to be having a wonderful time.

I was pleased to feel the wind on this beach blowing strongly and pleased I was not paddling into it or on the ocean. But also pleased to just have sighted this coast. It will be different at each beach, but it gives me a little glimmer and a slight smile. I compare previous South Island beaches, the good and the not so good, to this coast.

Back into Wellington, back to my house on the hill, back to write emails, back to update the support crew and try to juggle their lives and world with mine. That is a challenge as well. Then try to focus on the weather and that is all I can do for now. Watch and wait on Mother Nature. The stuck record, the repeat story of my world.

Instead of paddling north it seems to be "eat, sleep, swim, repeat". I cannot keep still, so the pacing tiger is keeping busy. I will climb the many hills around Wellington, find a bay or two to paddle a little on, and focus on getting to the top of this coast. Wish me luck it's going to be tough and it is just me.

My smiles today:
Just me.
A big soft bed last night.
The miles of beaches and waves.
Horses on the beaches.
Coffee sitting in Cuzzie.
A day by the ocean.

My thoughts today:
Be real.
Be yourself.
Be unique.
Be true.
Be honest.
Be humble.
Be happy.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Waitarere Beach.

Day 301...Seals and Swimming

Red Rock Reserve Freedom Camping. This is a beautiful location and, even with the wind whistling over head this morning, it was a pleasure to be in Cuzzie, waking up and looking out at this view. The wind was making the clouds fly over the cliff tops and then it raced over the ocean, creating a flat sea with massive wind ripples.

I was off to see the seal colony this morning, so I threw on my many layers to keep me warm from the wind. Head scarf on and I got out in the Wellington weather. The walk was fun. I talked a bit on my mobile as I walked. Then once I discovered the seals it was time to sit and just watch them laze about in the sun. They were totally ignoring me and the information board said that the young juvenile males all gather here to eat and put on weight. Well there was most certainly none that looked thin or unhealthy. They were enjoying life. I spent a long time out and about on these rocks and with the seals. It was nice being tucked away from the winds, but soon I needed to head back for a late breakfast, so pulled up my scarf and hoods and braced into the wind for the walk back to Cuzzie.

Once I had been fed (eggs and potato rosti) and watered, well actually more coffee than water, there were matters to deal with. As always there is a list and with no support crew it is all for me to organise, and already half the day had passed by. I made a few calls and booked Cuzzie in for a renewal of her self containment certificate. The things you need to do when you are a camper-van owner. I went Google searching for a camper-van car-wash! (Still no luck.) How crazy it seems that Wellington does not have a car-wash big enough for a camper-van! I was still trying to connect and talk with others as I drive towards the pools. Another fitness session in the pools to keep me moving and swimming. It seems to be working. Today in the pools was more intense for me. I got to 80 lengths, then thought "bugger it, what's another 20?" so it was 100 lengths (3.3km) done when I clambered out. It seems kayaking and swimming use lots of the same muscles. I am so glad I can swim. Thanks to my Dad for every morning he dragged me to the pools for training sessions (moaning like all teenagers do!).

Then it was a quick shower, get changed, run back to grab food from my portable cafe, and then head to grab my replacement sleeping bag. Thanks Bivouac for being so helpful. Your customer services and care has been amazing. Cheers from me. You and your suppliers have helped me by replacing my sleeping bag. 

Wellington tonight is wet, windy and getting dark. I sit in Cuzzie waiting for the after work city traffic to reduce so I can safely negotiate myself to a friends for the night. As luck would have it, the gypsy kayaker has a real bed for the next few nights.

Tomorrow is a driving day. I am headed to scope out these black beaches further north. Then back to chat to others who know this coastline better than me. Calmer, maybe, and sun again tomorrow. I am getting things done slowly, getting ready to paddle slowly, just as I learnt in the South Island. Everything happens for a reason and I am making the most of having time to prepare.

My smiles today:
Fat, lazy seals.
My morning view. 
Walking and talking.
Swimming again.
My portable cafe: Cuzzie.
Google. How did we ever cope before!?!
Windy Wellington, I enjoyed today.

My thoughts today:
"Take care of your body, it is the only place you have to live."

Goodnight from Red, Cuzzie and my stars.
Ma Te Wa.

Morning view.

Day 300...Solo Reflection

There is always a strange time for me when the support team leave and I return to just me, Cuzzie and my kayaks. It is weird, in fact it used to be okay seeing them off at the airport, as another used to arrive the same day. But now we wait until we can see the calm and ideal paddling days approaching. Then we tentatively book their flights, hoping always that we are not wasting their time and I actually get some paddling in. But until this happens I am on my own.

I spent the night at Evans Bay again last night and during the night realised I recognised a familiar sound. The wind had picked up and I could hear the kayaks rocking on top of Cuzzie. Prior to this night Wellington had not had any windy weather, which had been rather strange.

By 7am this morning I was up and wanting a hot coffee. Only to find no coffee was ground. It all got used up yesterday. Off to the supermarket to grab supplies and then I had a great long chat with Nat. She is home and due to start on work projects from tomorrow. The exciting news is that she is in Wellington next weekend, so we may just cross paths. It has been a long time since we saw each other and we have lots of stories to share.

Once I had grabbed coffee and a Sunday paper I drove and then parked up with the brow of the harbour. I made breakfast, drank my coffee and, for the first time on my entire journey, I sat and read a Sunday paper. It was weird. I watched numerous people walk and jog along Oriental Parade. It was a breezy but lovely sunny day and everybody was making the most of it. Soon I had to go walking as well, and I had a mission to get wet and do something physical. I went to Freyberg swimming pools. I needed to hear water, see bubbles and just lane swim. To me it is a way of debriefing but also thinking. 

As I sit and get into my gear at the pools I chat to Jase for a while, then ease myself into the pool lane. At first the water is a little cool, but once you get underway and a few lengths completed, the water temperature is perfect. There are not many in each lane so I just cruised along. It has been a few months now since I have swum. I think it was when I was in Greymouth. The pool is just over 30 metres long and soon enough I am underway and enjoying my swimming. I am no Phelps in the pool, but today I happily swam my goal of 2km. Then it was time to get out, get dressed and walk some more in the sunshine.

I grabbed a quick snack, walked a few kilometres back to Cuzzie, then found a park to sit in and eat my late lunch. Sunshine, quiet time and pondering. I also started to actually try and absorb and re-think all the great and not so great moments of the South Island trip. Wondering how I could write up an overall review of the entire South Island journey. I did try to start, but nothing seemed to flow. I gave up on that and just decided to people watch, while also doing research on Google! I was trying to work out what is happening, or what is the error regarding my solar panel and its slow charging. Alas no luck, so it will be a trip to the RV team tomorrow.

Once it starts to cool down I drive to a new Freedom Camping location in Red Rock (Te Kopahou Reserve). It has a few memories for me as I drive past Owhiro Bay (the bay I paddled into one very early morning when arriving into Wellington, before heading to the South Island) then to Red Rock, a location Nat and I had spent time at (also before my Cook Strait crossing). Today Red Rock Reserve was not as windy, but sadly the car park was jammed with daytime visitors. I am hopeful it will calm down by the evening. Otherwise I reckon I will be moving.

Tomorrow it seems I better do an early morning walk out to the seal colony and Red Rocks. Then another swim. Sadly for me the addiction for the weather watching has started and the frown is appearing again on my forehead. I have plenty of small things still to get done before I hit the water again. It seems there is always lots of stuff to get completed. Collect sleeping bag, get solar panel controller checked, try to write and video my thoughts on the South Island journey. Now that is a tough request. I reckon I am happier to just be out discovering sights and places in Wellington.

Until tomorrow it is all about just sitting back and enjoying my stunning camper-van view. Thanks Wellington for providing this location. It is beautiful and as the camper-vans start arriving for the night, a new community on wheels is appearing. If you ever have the chance get out of the city into a camper-van and follow the coastline, checking out the views; this one is so close to the city, but I feel I am on the coast again. Somewhat more at home than at the marina city car-park. It would be nice to share this night with others. Oh well, maybe on my next adventure.

My smiles today:
A Sunday paper.
Swimming lengths.
My campsite views.
Evening pink and blue skies.
I am in the North Island. I still have to pinch myself.
Renewed energy and spirit.
Having to trust and have faith. 
Camper-van communities.

My thoughts today:
Somehow everything will fall into place.

Until tomorrow. Goodnight from Red and Cuzzie.

Ma Te Wa.

Red Rock Reserve view.

Day 299...Hellos and Goodbyes

Saturday in Wellington. More sunshine and a day to catch-up with others, but firstly we chat to a neighbouring overnight person at Evans Bay Marina. Ben; we met last night when he stopped to chat to us. Another kiwi on the road, taking time out from his day to day working life. Ben has a very colourful life and as I have said: everyone has a story. As Ben shared his with us, I could only laugh with him about what troubles he had got into over the years. We had watched him consume a few bottles of wine before he headed our way to say "hi" and this had made him rather talkative. Some may have been a little shocked by his life stories but they were what made him such a character. He retired to his car to sleep and then this morning we made him a couple of hot coffees before we both headed off in our different directions. Ben with his tooth brush in hand and us to see more friends in Wellington.

Thank goodness for google maps as we weave through the streets of Wellington for brunch and a catch-up with friends. We drink coffee, and then over the lunch table, with hot bowls of soup, we chatted and told stories. It was so enjoyable that it was hard to leave and head away to see others back down at the waterfront (Richard and his daughter Eden). 

I am trying to talk about my past few months and share my highlights but, sheez, that would take way more than a couple of hours. In the end it is easier to just say it was absolutely incredible and if I try and pick just one favourite moment or location. (I actually can't.) The South Island has left a truly remarkable impression on me. Still to digest and still to dissect.

As the day races along it is a little tougher for me as I have to say goodbye to Jase; his time as my support person has ended. He has done as promised and crewed me over the final South Island leg and his wonderful clients now need him back to get them back into shape. We have an early Japanese dinner and then I drive to the airport to say goodbye. It is now that I start to look at the weather. I now start to wonder when I need to call upon my replacement crew to head down to drive Cuzzie. Not for a few days by the look of things. Time enough for me to adjust to my solo camper-van life again. Time for me to drive some of this coastline. Time for me to start watching the swells, the winds and the crashing West Coast waves. More wild West Coast rides, more new local stories, and much frowning at horror stories and comments. Cape Reinga here I come. I am looking forward to meeting and seeing you.

My smiles today:
Calm, sunny Wellington.
Peoples' life stories.
Japanese dinner and warm sake.
Seeing familiar faces.
Feeling emotions.

My thoughts today:
Someday you will look back and know exactly why it happened. 

Until tomorrow. Goodnight from Red.

Ma Te Wa.

Boat houses in Wellington.

Day 298...Fresh Faced Friends

Numb fingers and numb arms again woke me numerous times throughout the night. It seems whenever I sleep on a hard mattress I get this issue. It is not life threatening, just rather a nuisance and because I had been in and on a bed for a while at Kaihoka, I had forgotten or had hoped that this had disappeared. But it has returned to my annoyance.

Once up, with coffee, and fed, I was off to have a giggle at Jason. His southern mans beard was to be removed today. He wanted his fresh shaven face to return. Barkers barbers did a fantastic job. Hot towels, cut throat razor shave, haircut and such a lovely team to chat with too. I had to take pictures of the process. It was hilarious. I had got used to the look of the facial hair, but now it is all gone. Jase had a grin from ear to ear. 

We then met up for coffee and lunch with the wonderful Xabi (an Auckland friend down for the day). We spent a lovely afternoon chatting as I have not seen this gorgeous, happy man for 10 months. He has not changed one bit and is still full of laughter and lots of energy.

We enjoyed the waterfront again today. The Wellington streets did not seem so over powering today and I was again surprised at the calm Wellington weather. Was I a little concerned that I was not paddling? Actually no! I am happy to accept this break, this reward I had promised myself, and I am enjoying each moment. Smashing, crashing beaches will return and there is always lots of prep to do, so we sat and did a heap of West Coast shoreline studying. We uploaded and upgraded electronic apps and appliances, and then the day was nearing the end. We offered to drop our mate back to the airport and then it was actually time for us to park up for the night. We get sorted and write to a few friends, study books about this next section and then just enjoy the beautiful calm Wellington evening.

A cold night for sure, and we are looking forward to a wonderful Saturday with some more locals, markets and prepping.

My smiles today:
Southern beard gone!
Wellington waterfront.
Seeing an old, smiling friend.
Recharging.

My thoughts today: 
It is okay to gift myself time to rest and recharge.

Goodnight from Red and Jase.
Ma Te Wa.

Wellington waterfront.

Close shave.

Day 297...Hi Wellington. Miss Me?

At 2.45am we off-load from the Inter-Islander ferry and it is kind of weird. We drive to the camper-van overnight car park at Evans Bay Marina, we threw the bed together and quickly crashed to sleep. It was near on impossible to sleep on the ferry as every side I slept on, my arms would go completely numb and wake me up!

This morning I could hear the hum of traffic, the airplanes over head, and wished I could hear the sea instead. We made breakfast and coffee. I sat in the passengers seat of Cuzzie, trying to get a grip of the fact I was back in the North Island and back in Wellington. It has been a reality check in many ways; kind of like stepping out of a time capsule into a world I have been away from for so many months. (8 months in fact.) I last walked these streets on the 23rd of December. Leaving these shores on the early hours of the 24th of December, that is nuts!

We walk quickly along the streets going about the important stuff of getting gear checked, repaired and replaced. In the end I grab Jase's arm and hang on as I am not used to having to weave and dodge heaps of city people anymore. I am used to being on a beach and sharing it with a couple of birds or a random hunter. It is damn weird to be back in a big city, I am so glad I have someone to drive for me. I would be a nightmare on these roads. We laugh lots as we go about the day. It is rather successful, combined with it being sunny and warm. Many times I pinch myself and it will take a few days to absorb it all.

As said yesterday I am taking a couple of days to realign my brain. Just some time to recheck the gear, Cuzzie, me and the support crew, before heading on another tough coastline. I always feel better after a couple of days of planning and preparation. I have to admit, "winging it" makes me anxious and more nervous than I care to feel like. Wellington does not disappoint. Friendly helpful people, a great walk along the water front, a wonderful, quick Vietnamese lunch and then we sit on the beach. After a big day yesterday we then retreat to Cuzzie for a late afternoon chill. Jase to sleep and me to do some "me maintenance" things. Tonight is catch up time with my family. My niece Briar and her partner Dave are with us for dinner and a long gossip.

Tomorrow the planning begins.
Tomorrow is more catch up.
Tomorrow is repairs and tidy time.
Tomorrow is learning to enjoy being in the city. (Holy Heck.)

My smiles today:
Wellington, really?
Missing the sound of the waves.
Lovely, helpful retail staff.
Trying to cut my fringe!
Jase guiding me around the streets of Wellington.
Sensory overload.

My thoughts today:
Life is short, time is fast. There is no replay and no rewind, so I am going to enjoy every moment as it comes!

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Hi Wellington, did you miss me?

Day 296...Picton

A wonderful sleep. I wake before my alarm as per normal and just lie in my little bed; warm, dry and cozy in the lovely little room in this cute cottage. I am smiling, but I still have a few hours of paddling to do this morning and need to be well down the Tory Channel before the tide turns at 8am. As I pull on my many layers of clothing I drink a coffee and munch on some food for breakfast. I am ready well before my scheduled departure so I sit by the heater and just close my eyes reliving my paddle of yesterday. The great moments and the ever changing sights and coastlines.

Soon enough it was time to take my gear down to Louise and load her for this morning's paddle. With my head torch on and bag of gear over my shoulder I say goodbye to the gorgeous white horse standing outside the cottage. I pack my gear and send my tracking message off. Then I wander up to the house to say my goodbyes and the biggest thank-you. I had also forgotten my homemade biscuits that they gave me last night. At 6am I am on the water for my final short paddle of 26km into Waikawa Bay and then for a little slice of luxury, I get to catch the ferry back to Wellington. There is no need in my brain to do a second crossing. I am not keen on doing things twice!

I munch on a biscuit as I start today and then hear a voice from the beach saying goodbye. Antonia, big hugs to you. I will be back to go diving with you both. I also got a message later saying that I paddled out with the southern cross shining brilliantly above me. Perfect for sure. Paddling down the channel in the dark for the first hour was okay. I kept close to the sides, away from the wind and any ferries or fishing boats. That turned out to be a great idea as the first ferry raced down the centre before I heard any noise. Then the channel had a constant stream of small, large and very large boats whizzing off to go fishing and enjoy the day on the water. This is a beautiful location and I was glad in away that it was a slow paddle. I had time to hug the banks, to look at every bay and all the cottages tucked away in the bays (where the only access was to be by boat). I actually could imagine having our boat down here and being able to head off for a dive or fish at a moments notice, and explore every finger of these sounds! I liked what I saw as I headed into my final boat ramp at Waikawa; seals sunning themselves on rocks and on the unused wharfs, but no dolphins! What a shame, now I will have to head back to find them on another trip south. See, I have already found a reason to return.

The wind was in my face for these 4 hours whenever I tried to head from point to point, so I just made a point of discovering lots. I knew Jase was still driving from French Pass, he had fallen in love with this location and stayed there all of yesterday monitoring my progress, as with great views, Internet and mobile coverage, there was no reason to move. I do not blame him, that too, is a slice of paradise. I eventually get to my boat ramp destination 4 hours and 26km later. I chat to a lady standing in her boat waiting for the engines to start, but alas they do not get going so their boating trip is cancelled.

Cuzzie and Jase arrive with big hugs and high fives. Then we load up and head into Picton to eat and sit in the sun. We get the booking sorted for the 10.30pm ferry crossing. The hugest thank-you to the Inter-Islander. We spend the day walking, just talking in the sunshine after the most scrumptious steak lunch. It was nice to be in the sunshine for the entire day. I got clothes cleaned and dry and also threw my very laddered and over worn South Island black woollen leggings in the rubbish bin. The support crew took a picture of me dumping them in the rubbish bin. I have two others to ruin on the next leg of this journey.

Tonight we sit looking at the harbour lights, cook dinner with Cuzzie's sliding door wide open, and pour a glass of red wine, to toast Red finishing the South Island. We jump on the ferry. It is 8 months since I was last in the North Island. I am taking a couple of days away from my kayaking and refocusing next week. It is a few days of me time. Jase is removing his South Island beard. At least until he decides he did like the furry face.

My smiles today:
Paddling Tory Channel. 
Your lovely comments on Facebook. Thank-you. 
Coconut ice cream in the sunshine.
The entire day was superb.
Generous caring people.

My thoughts today:
"Be kind whenever possible. It is always possible." - Dalai Lama

Until tomorrow. Goodnight from the South Island from Red, Jase, Cuzzie and Louise.
Ma Te Wa.

Hitching a ride.

Dinner in Picton Harbour.

Day 295...Nailed It!

At 4am I am awake, listening to the gentle lapping of the ocean against the golden sands of this beach. French Pass, this little DOC campsite is a true gem and we are the only ones in this little place. Today is a paddling day so I have butterflies. Tonight is going to be a solo night in my tent as we cannot see how I can make it all the way to where I touched down and then into Picton. It is far too big a distance from French Pass to Picton in one day, so I had loaded my kayak last night with most of my gear. After having my broken rudder cable fixed, we ate dinner. I was tense and anxious about distances for this next section, also a little concerned the wind was going to ruin my chances of a big day. It was set that I was to paddle just on 60km, but this is always weather dependent.

At 6.15am I hit the water. Big hugs to Jase. A couple of nervous tears, not actually sure why, but they arrived. As I started to paddle it was still dark so had my GPS on deck just in case, but the skies were clear and it was easy to navigate this morning. Along the way there was the hum of a small outboard motor, and then as I got to the first point a large fishing vessel had motored along and out past me. The waters were mostly calm and they did not really cut up rough until I got to Pelorus Sound. Tough tide and white caps for most of this crossing. Typical of the mouth of the sounds. Either heaps of water rushing in or out. I have never hit them when they are calm.

Once past this rougher patch I began my regular routine. Check in every 2 hours by my Satellite Phone. Eat and drink, at least when I stopped or more often if possible. It was going okay, today's paddling. A few large fishing boats and a couple of smaller pleasure boats as well out in the water. Lots of birds and little penguins but no dolphins. At the 4 hour mark I seemed to be tracking well, time wise, but did not dare hope that it would continue. I had lots of bays to cross yet and that whistling wind was sure to arrive.

Past Forsyth Island and Alligator Point, the day was clear and bright I could see the outline of the North Island. I was really keen to get past and around Cape Jackson and then see how the winds had picked up in the Queen Charlotte Sound. I managed a brief call on my mobile and discussed that I was tracking well and what were the thoughts on me going on the outside of Arapawa Island. "No you do not have time!" "Okay" I said. I was pleased that we had decided this as when I rounded the corner the tide was racing and I could make little headway into the sounds, what with an outgoing tide it seemed, and a strong wind. I had slowed considerably. Bugger, my dream in the back of my mind to maybe nail the South Island today has just slipped away with each paddle stroke.

Queen Charlotte Sound just kept pushing me out and making it tough going to try and enter and cross on a diagonal. I gave up and got better speed going directly across. Not fast, but way better than my attempts to gap it into the sounds. As I got closer to Cape Koamaru I slowed again, making me think I might as well stop at the closest beach now and try push to Tory Channel tomorrow. All the time though I was looking at the horizon and being blown away by how calm Cook Strait seemed. That is a rare sight. I could see the wind turbines on the hills of Makara. No white caps and the view was as far as the eyes could see. There were small pleasure craft out on the water. It must be calm. Maybe I could make it. I discussed this with a very doubtful Jase. "You don't have enough daylight hours left!" I was gutted but suggested I just go and see what it looked like around the point. If it was windy I would turn and setup camp. Or maybe I could make it.

I then had no one else to blame for this next decision. I wanted to nail the South Island TODAY. I did not care if I was on the water at sunset. I put my head down, hugged the coastline and oh boy did I paddle. I had the tide against me, and lots of rips and eddies along the way but I was like a dog with a bone. Even when I passed a small little boat, who said "you left your run a bit late lass!" Nothing was going to stop me now. Too much liquid drunk again today, this was a nuisance with my timing. But I am an expert now with emptying my bladder on the water. But I have to stop briefly! (That is another story!)

Back into the paddling. No stopping until you see something you remember from your crossing so many months ago. When I see Perano Head I was surprised and doubted my memory. Was I sure? No way! I had made it by just after 5pm. I still had about 45 minutes before sunset but I still had about 5km to paddle and my campsite to setup. I did not care. I had nailed it. I was one very happy kayaker. Actually slightly in disbelief to be honest.

The inter-islander ferry passed by on a perfect, calm evening into the channel. I watched it pass by before I glided between the gap in the rocks into Tory Channel. Then I admired the view. Beautiful moonlight, pink and pale blue sunset behind me, and over the silhouette of the snow-capped mountains to my left, the ocean reflecting the sunset and a perfect Cook Strait. Thank-you Mother Nature. It was a perfect end to a beautiful day around this totally inspiring island. It is everything and far more than I ever imagined. I understand why people adore the South Island. It is so very special a place that wins your heart, or maybe I am one of the few that she (MN) wants to return. As if my day could not get any better, I paddle towards buildings and a beach. I decide that I better go and ask permission to camp on this beach and I was told no way are you camping, we have a house! A heater and hot water, and please come for dinner! 😀

I was blessed today. Thanks to this wonderful household for welcoming me into their beautiful slice of paradise. I will remember this night forever. Seafood Gumbo, rice and a fresh green salad, and lots of cups of tea. Thanks is never going to be enough. You guys have made this day complete. You all know what I am about to say; I am returning to this special location. To help with the farming of the very beautiful paua pearls, and to go diving. The gypsy kayaker will maybe never want to leave!

My smiles today:
EVERTHING ABOUT TODAY MAKES ME SMILE! It is a day I will always remember.

My thoughts today:
I love Aotearoa.

Goodnight from Red and Louise.
Ma Te Wa.

Tory Channel.